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Yes, neutral from 7, hot from either 8 or 10, will have your fan run constant.

In

Yeah, I didn't think I'd use them all that often. Felt like cheating or a low quality build, whatever. After my first build with the Kreg jig I found myself reaching for it damn near all the time.

I'm in

@CBelli I assume you're starting with a full keg of sanitizer and not a half keg as your instructions seem to indicate. If you only use a half you'll have an incomplete purge. I use a utility pump based keg washer to wash rinse so don't use CO2 for that part of it but my sanitization process is...

@CBelli I assume you're starting with a full keg of sanitizer and not a half keg as your instructions seem to indicate. If you only use a half you'll have an incomplete purge. I use a utility pump based keg washer to wash rinse so don't use CO2 for that part of it but my sanitization process is...

I guess this makes twice. Still, an enviable record.

Fittings, etc. need to be polished per the standard. Field weld pipes do not need to be polished but require a visual inspection to ensure the weld meets criteria for purge gas, penetration, weld profile, porosity, etc.

I whipped three of these off for a friend who is putting together a new build using tri-clamps. I've seen a couple of different ways of mounting dip tubes in a tri setup such as using a stopper or orifice plate but have not seen this approach so I thought I'd post it. Tube is 5/8" and the...

It might be thicker than some other pots but 200 series doesn't weld as nicely as 300. It is also more susceptible to stress cracking post welding. Not an issue for someone who knows what they're doing but seeing some of the butcher jobs that people have paid good money for on a more forgiving...

I'm still rather surprised that you don't need a permit, for the electrical anyway.

Sorry for the tardy reply. I'm finishing up my second week of night shifts and don't spend much time online when I'm doing them. The couplers are both Hansen. Part numbers B4HP26 & B4KP26. I also used a 3/4 sweat to 1/2 MPT adapter to connect to the 3/4 copper and a 1/2 MPT to 1/4 FPT bush...

Mine is all copper & brass with a a galvanized reducer bushing thrown in for good measure. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/keg-carboy-washer-line-cleaner-395353/

You could siphon but then you'd be needlessly exposing your brew to oxygen. Theveganbrewer's suggestion is the best path. You basically want to make a short jumper to connect two kegs together and transfer just the beer to a new keg. The trick here is that to avoid picking up the hops you...

I made mention of this in another thread and figured I'd snap a few pictures. Once the video camera charges I'll hopefully remember to shoot some video. It's a pretty standard washer powered by a utility pump. QD's for cleaning both the gas and liquid lines, etc... The business end is a...

Very similar to my setup. I've got a male QD fitting on the top of my tube which just sprays up to clean kegs/carboys. When it's line cleaning time I just snap on my line adapter which is nothing more than a female QD connected to a liquid keg post. I just set the whole thing in front of the...

http://www.the-home-brew-shop.co.uk/acatalog/Five_Star_Star_San_16oz_454g.html#.URU-6Wd6SWZ Looks like it is indeed available. Another option is a no-rinse CIP sanitizer such as OxySan designed for the food & dairy industries.

Free stuff is good.

TrrubDog is right, keep looking. Once the QD is connected the poppet is pressed down to allow gas to enter the keg. It might as well not even be there. By all means replace the poppet but keep looking for the leak because that is not your culprit.

I don't know why everyone else is bothering, it's obvious I'm going to win.