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First you need help determining where to put your posts. This is the forum for introductions.

I use one. It sits crooked but it still works okay. No concerns about the element, but if I had a weld-less fitting for it I would worry.

I'm relieved to hear this. I'm pleased that you have a sense of humor. My all-electric build is working fine, thank you. An electrician friend certified my set-up before I plugged it in.

Plenty of room. I even added two 120V circuit breakers to the spa panel (very handy), and still had enough room. Of course, I had to drill 4 small holes for the mounting screws.

The 1500V is over voltage. The operating voltage is not listed. Don't you wonder why?? You might want to activate it for more than 60 seconds.

I installed mine in the hole in the top.

MIL-STD 202 Method 301: Dielectric Withstanding Voltage Has nothing to do with operating voltage.

These are not rated for high-voltage. I used cheap 240V appliance cable/plugs and cheap outlets. Applying 240V to 120V connectors is just evil.

Too much heat + Heating too small an area (in contact with the wort) = Scorching It's all about power density, hot spots that make the local wort burn.

You likely don't have 54" because the fittings are in the way. You won't have 18" because there is not that much below the water line unless you have a HUGE grainbill. However, you could use a round one on the bottom too. The round one has re-sparked my interest. I already have a PID...

You're scorching your wort because the watt density is too high in a standard element. Period. To dramatically lower the watt density, use a high wattage ultra-low watt density 240V element on your 120V current. A 4500W element will only draw 1/4 the power with half the voltage. An easy...

CidahMastah, I've been reading your posts on this thread, would you mind if I took out an insurance policy on you?

NO. You should not use a cable with a lower current capacity than the circuit breaker.

Adding some Gypsum (Calcium Sulfate) to your water might wake up your hops.

I used one of those. You can't beat the price. You can also add two circuit breakers.

I don't see any practical difference in the alloy, but the thickness will make a big difference in durability. I'd go for the thicker one.

Copper oxide is NOT green. Initially, bare Cu metal atoms react with air to form the pink oxide, cuprite, Cu2O, which has Cu+1 cations. This gradually oxidizes further to the black oxide, tenorite, CuO, with Cu+2 ions. The black sulfide CuS also sometimes forms. In the presence of moisture...

After 6 weeks, it's too late to stop the yeast activity. I expect that it has exhausted it's food and stopped on it's own anyway. If they have not exploded yet, heating them up should do the trick. You are not describing pasteurization, which usually requires heating to about 145-150 degrees...