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keezer died and i'm not brewing anymore, so this awesome stuff should go someplace it will be used/loved. prices do not include shipping. open to reasonable offers. 8 tap tower + 7 perlicks + 1 nitro tap + lines + ball lock connectors: $500 plug and play tap setup. drill holes in...

so i've got to rip my control panel apart to add contactors and lighted switches for my elements (to keep from dry firing them, in case of SSR failure, etc). looking at DIN mounted stuff, it appears that i could put all the terminal blocks in a row on a DIN rail and save a little...

so any time i have had a question, auber was great about questions. but one of my pid mount brackets just hit the ground and broke, and they're sending me a new one for the cost of shipping ($2). so for those of you trying to re-invent the wheel with some little Chinese PID, support is just...

so i have 2 new bottom drain keggles to put sight glasses in. obviously i am going to put them as low as possible in the keggle, but do you guys prefer them in front of the keggle (between you and the keggle when facing the brewstand) or off to the side?

this stuff has served me well, but i moved into a place with a huge garage and 40amp 240v service, so i have disconnected all my old gas stuff and gone electric :tank: i have 2 70k btu burners, a homemade gas manifold that was bolted to my stand, and a propane regulator. this lets you run...

last year i moved from propane outdoors to electric in the garage. until recently i have been moving the brew stand next to the garage door and my drain line from my pump has been flowing down the driveway. i've been cleaning equipment outside with the hose. it's cold and miserable. I am now...

i have an 8 tap tower i bought from a bar used, and they used the commercial style tailpieces that thread. i replaced them with 90 degree elbows but my LHBS was 2 short. they ordered more but they are different/bigger. anyone know where i can get the smallest possible 3/16" 90 degree elbows...

so i needed to hop in a corny as secondary, but i didn't want the bag to clog the dip tube. I took the air in dip tube (the short one) and drilled a hole at the bottom of it. re-assemble as normal, then take a small piece of stainless steel wire (safety wire for you mechanics) and put it through...

so i bought a 2362 a few years back as my first PID for brewing. i didn't know anything about them, but it is in my control panel and working well. i now want to add a second pid to control the other vessel with a heating element. the 2372 seems to boast "built in ssr controls" but i believe my...

I just switched to electric and my ic doesnt fit in my keggle as well with the element. I want to switch to a cfc. Bobby's instructions in the wiki call for a 25' section of copper but i only see 20' and 50' at home depot. Will 50' be a problem? Or will it just chill faster and with less water...

so i found a guy in town who is selling four separate 4 year old rhizomes. he harvested all the vines and is selling me the rhizomes. anything special i need to know about digging them up? replanting? my plan is to go get them next week and build a trellis or something in the spring when...

so PJ has been kind enough to post up diagrams for several members here. any chance we could get a sticky going to see them all? :ban:

just came across this and am so excited to get one. i'd love to be able to set a temperature profile for a week or 2 and have it take care of everything for me! Initial Release is Finally Here! |

So I am trying to auto tune my new herms controller. I hook everything up and test it, the element works and is heating water. Set it to auto tune and the temp on the vessel just keeps dropping. Its not turning on the element to heat. Am I missing something?

so i found Denny's Evil Czech Pilsner recipe and am going to try a pils on xmas eve... went to the LHBS and grabbed the grain for a 6 gal batch and a wyeast smack pack, i planned on making a starter like i always do for ales. so i get back to the house and hit the mr malty pitching...

so i have seen a lot of designs with SSR's switching 120v hot legs, and have recently read up on some 220v setups that seem to be using SSRs + Contactors. is the contactor simply to drive 2 separate hot legs for 240v? do i need a contactor to run a heating element at 120v? :confused:

so i had read through the several hundred pages of the solder stainless thread, and done a couple of vessels with 1/2" couplings for ball valves, thermometers, etc. now i wanted a heating element in my HLT to control my HERMS temps, so i dove in and made this happen! for a primer on soldering...

so i have a 50' 1/2" coil that i use as an IC, but i'm contemplating taking the old 25' IC and installing it into the HLT as a HERMS coil. the question is: where to put it in the HLT? i assume i want to mount it as low as i can to minimize the amount of water needed in the HLT. that means...

hey guys, i am currently in a totally manual propane setup in 3 keggles with a HERMS coil, but monitoring my HERMS output with a PID. i have been considering using electric to easily maintain my HERMS output at my mash temp, but only really have 110v available to me, and still want to be able to...

man i tried to get a topic that wouldn't immediately be crucified by all you sicko's, but i failed. so now that you're here help me out :drunk: i have a couple of propane burners i put in a brew stand and i keep reading about drilling orifices for proper burn. how do i know if i need to do this??