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great link too. thanks.

i was kinda thinkin about the diastatic power as well. grain bill was upwards of 25% unmalted wheat and about 3% flaked oats. has anyone else noticed a drop in efficiency with northern brewers crush?

don't know if this exactly answers your question but i use bru'n water's spread sheet. i never bothered with the water profile part of beersmith. in bru'n water it breaks down what to add to sparge and strike water seperately. Cheers.

+1 on bru'n Water. my water sucked so i started building it up from distilled water a few years back using bru'n water. it looks more intimidating than it really is. If i remember correctly it even has some presets for different kinds of beer. with your first all grain batch don't worry...

i've been trying to find an answer to this and can't figure it out. so, i used to purchase all of my grain from brewmasters warehouse because i was getting great efficiency with their crush. since they are no longer in business i recently went to northern brewer. i brewed a wit last weekend...

sure does. thanks.

this is going to my first attempt at a lager now that i have a refrigerator and thermostat control set up for it. i read through the post but didn't see exactly how long everybody was fermenting before bumping up for the diacetyl rest. is it a week? do you gradually raise it to 60 degrees or...

couple of squirts with a spray bottle of cold water. no need for star san, your boiling anyway.

you don't have to transfer, but the orval clone calls for some brett after primary fermentation. you'll definitely want to transfer off the yeast cake if you are going to be adding brett and letting it sit for months (or even a year). if you do let it sit, don't dry hop until 3-10 days before...

thanks for the input. i definitely learn more by watching someone else, so the videos are really helpful!

i've got bicarbonate as HCO3 at 172 and what they list as just plain carbonate at <1

I've played around with bru'n water and a few others, but was stumped on palmers correlations with srm regarding RA. Thanks for the response.

so here is the report: pH- 7.9 Na- 18 Ca- 35 Mg- 20 So4-S- 6 Cl- 35 HCO3-172 Total Alkalinity- 141

hello all, i've been playing around with the ez water calculator and i have a question that has stumped me. listening to the brewstrong episode on water, palmer stresses the importance of RA and even guives guidelines based on the srm of the beer. i can find no way of having an RA in his...

just out of curiosity, jbt, what lab did you send your sample to? i'm in emmaus too and couldn't find a reasonable place to send it without overpaying. thanks for the info though. the township wasn't very helpful when i was trying to get a water report.

well, i live outside of philly and we managed to get 12 inches of snow in october. our power was out for 4 days and i'm worried about my frozen yeast bank that took 2 years to build up. i burried all of the vials outside in a pile of snow and dug them up as soon as the power came back on and...

i work in a woodshop and use fresh oak chips quite a bit. i steam them for a minute or two to get off any nasties that might be clinging on and add them to secondary for a month or two. i usually make ipa's and they turn out great. i do believe it would be a different flavor than an oak...

oops. revvy beat me to it.

30 min is not bad to cool a brew to fermentation temps. its actually pretty impressive using just an ice water bath. if you were filling the fermentor from the kettle with the siphon, then that is not a problem at all. you want to oxygenate the wort as much as possible at that time. yeast...

if you are in a hurry give this a try. i made it last year and it was great. i'll be brewing it again tommorow. it uses an ale yeast instead of the typical lager yeast. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f63/biermunchers-oktoberfast-ale-ag-39021/