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Oh sure. I had a beer that had this really astringent funkiness to it that was not intended at all. It was so horrible I had to dump the whole batch. I ended up finding a bottle of it in the corner of my cabinet several months later and I tried it. Let's just say it didn't get better with...

Agree with the last two replies...with that said, if you really like that hop punch in the face when you drink a quality IPA, you're definitely going to want to be a lot more aggressive than a single ounce in 5 gal batch. My minimum is 4oz... 2-3oz still produces some pretty good results...

I was doing about 2 pints a night, but like other commenters, I also would like to keep the girth down and prevent myself from becoming a lookalike of Jaba the Hut. I limit myself to 12oz a night during the week and maybe 2 pints on weekends.

Nice...I'm not in Okinawa, but I remember Camp Schwab and the NTA very well. I'm sure it's challenging to get supplies over there, eh?

The best way to know for sure is to take a gravity reading. If you're at your target FG, then you're ready to bottle!

The Irish Moss does make a difference wrt proteins. If you didn't add it, they'll stay in suspension for awhile. Just keep in mind that in most cases, time clears all beers.

The crystal is 13% of your total weight of grains. It depends on what you like, but I think it's a little much. I made a beer once where I went overboard on the crystal. It was still drinkable, but it was just a little to heavy and sweet. I'd shoot for something closer to 5% imho.

Good deal! The next year will be even better once the roots are established. My cascades are already breaking the 6ft mark.

Nice color!

What fermentation temp were you shooting for? 65 isn't too bad for ale fermentation. First thing is to take a gravity reading to see how far off you are. It could be that you had a quick fermentation, which isn't bad. If you're way off, then I assume you had a quick temperature drop, which...

Yeah, if you're a hop head, I'd recommend 4x the dry hops for about 10-14 days.

To clarify, are you saying that you want to go straight from primary in the bucket to adding your priming sugar and bottling w/out racking it to another vessel?

Beersmith has a great feature where it specifies the mash tun capacity needed for the recipe. It's never let me down.

Just throwing my two cents in. I go back and forth between an IC and a CFC...it depends on the beer and wether or not I opted to use the keggle or not. If I want to make a really hoppy beer, I typically steep hops after flame-out for about 1/2 hour. because of this, I want to keep my oils...

I had a lot of great success with my first mash tun, which was converted from an old ice chest I had laying around. There is no risk with the scratches, if any. As many already posted, mashing is pre-boil, so there's is no risk of contamination at this point in the process.

How much head space did you leave and did you keep it refrigerated? I'd imagine it would last a few days if you didn't leave too much head space on it.

The amount of yeast wouldn't be the problem. Your beer simply dried out...meaning you had a good deal of fermentable sugars in your wort and most of it was fermented not leaving behind enough residual sweetness. It sounds like this was an AG batch, so I'd recommend shooting for a higher temp...

+1 on David's reply. They won't make a difference. Ensure you're taking a reading at 60 degrees. Heat will drop the gravity.

Cool beans, not saying to get anal about it, but if you want it to be a California Common, then there you go. This is officially my 100th post by the way! Wish there was a prize for that.

Actually, based on the style guidelines it is acceptable to have a light esterous flavor, but should otherwise be clean and crisp. The uniqueness in this style is actually found in the type of yeast that ought to be used. In order for it to be a true California Common, one ought to ferment...