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Looks good, other than the Old Stinkysock tap handle.

I picked up a fridge from an elderly neighbour last week who is moving. Danby was good enough to put the coarse adjustment screw in the open, right under the dial adjustment. 3 days of fiddling around, and it sits at 42F. Thanks for this thread!

Polish first, then put liquid paper in the areas you don't want solder to get around the fitting hole. After you solder the fitting, use a solvent to remove the liquid paper, and it will just need a small buffing.

Very nice job, I really like these old fridges. I have a mid 40s Westinghouse that is going to get some love this winter. I hope to look half as good as yours when done.

I'm jealous. The only Harris solder sold in Canada is in larger (1lb-ish) weights, expensive to buy that much. HD doesn't carry that here.

I agree with the no plasma, I have yet to see a good cut made on SS. I disagree with not learning to weld on SS though. If you have a TIG unit, and start with stick to learn, I think SS is great. Once you have a handle on stick, you can move to TIG. Expecting that you can start to...

Are you carbing the beer cold, then removing it from the fridge to serve?

Even if the plate needs to be in water to maintain temp, it shouldn't take up more than a corny keg worth of space. I can see this working to run warm ale kegged beer through a lager temp fridge, and getting proper temp ale.

Brilliant! I have a 7 pass plate kicking around. And some spare taps. This would get some odd questions from fellow homebrewers for sure. How do you have 11 taps on your fridge?

Brilliant! I have a pizza pan, and always fudge around with removing it from the cut out.

How will you make a sanitary weld inside with no access to weld from inside, or to grid the inside if welding from the outside?

I don't see a swing per se, what I think is happening is that the SS valve and T is cooling down the thermometer probe. I stir the mash, and the reading comes back up a few degrees, and matches the reading on the loose thermometer I have.

Readings seem fine, I have checked with another thermometer. I do need to stir the mash more frequently than with my other tun, but I think that may be due to the 5ga size more than anything.

No copper was injured or killed during the filming of this MT.

Very nice looking chiller you made. The SS coil can be cut with the same small tubing cutters used for copper pipe and tubing. You should be able to pick one up for a few $ at your local hardware store, and they are always handy to have around. If you find you need further turbulence...

I use 1/4 ID line for all my taps. I have to use 15', but it coils up, so no big deal. Take a look at this site, has tables and charts and everything. ;) http://www.brewersfriend.com/2009/07/18/getting-a-good-pour-kegged-beer-co2-line-length-and-pressure/

I would be interested in one.

I have 2 of those sitting up the side of a friend's house, mine are SS though. I don't know how people are checking if an item is stainless or aluminum, but what I do as a quick check, is scratch it with a brass key. SS won't scratch, most aluminum will. If I am still curious, a grinder...

I converted 2 for a friend. Cut the tops off at 9" dia, he made gaskets out of 2 silicone placemats. A round piece of plexi covers that, with a hole drilled for an airlock. It has a piece of 1x1" barstock that fits through the handles, with a hole drilled through it. Through that is a bolt...

Check your local RV supplier. Not knowing where you are doesn't help with replies to questions like this though.