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no need.. the yeast will find there way into the beer.

im no expert to be sure, but oak is very porous. once a barrel is soured, its pretty much impossible to eliminate the bugs. if it's really just vinegar, then you may be ok, but funky smelling barrels are pretty suspect. fill it up with watered down cheap vodka and see if it swells enough to...

I know a small commercial brewery that uses a large tankless water heater for strike and sparge water.

dry yeast does tend to kick off a bit faster, but patience is a virtue in the brewing game. like they say, a watched pot never boils.

i wouldn't be concerned. 68 is plenty warm enough, and 14 hours isn't all that long. you want want to check that everything is sealed well too. i've had fermentations that seemed to not take off, but only to find out that there was a leak somewhere and i just wasn't seeing the co2 where i expected.

it can only get better next time. good news is the lack of a hydrometer really doesn't hurt anything, it just means you dont know if you hit the target gravity so you won't know the ABV of the finished beer. all the other stuff, well, time will tell.

it's just easier to see signs of life in a 1l flask than it is in the carboy. in the flask, you should see clear signs of life quickly (like 4-8hrs). In the 5gal carboy a viable, but slow start may take 20 or more hours. better to figure out if you need to buy a new yeast colony tomorrow morning...

some breweries try to draw a distinction in their product lines.... but otherwise ^^^ what they said.

should be pretty tasty and complex. Maybe a bit on the malty side, but not overly so. balanced nice with the various hoppy - bitter flavors. good luck. and enjoy.

i'll take it, i like to read.

if i understand your question: You want to know what "Fields" people want in a brewing software..... if you understand XML: BeerXML defines the "Classes", "Fields", "Enumerations", "Types" and "Structures" for everything most people want in a brewing software. BTW - you dont have to...

in absence of anything else adding more water to account for larger boil off will lower your OG. What was your target? It doesn't look particularly low. Were you shooting for the 1.040? if yes then you need to continue sparging, and increase boil vol. if no, then you have efficiency problems...

if you have 10 or 15 gallon cornies available that's pretty cool. i tried to acquire 10 gal cornies, but it's a lot easier/cheaper to get a 15.5 gallon sanke.

no, a keg is useful. an angel lost it's wings when the drill bit hit that lid.

+1 - aluminum anywhere near the burners will soften and sag. Even thin steel can have problems. better to stick with stainless 3/16 anywhere near the heat source. also, make sure its got space to expand. when you heat it, it WILL expand. if the ends are constrained too much it WILL deform...

i've done it a few times but, really it's not that practical unless you have cornies to dedicate to it. sankes work a lot better.

there is a badge creator that still works.. kinda cool

i have interchangeable pickups for this reason. open end for pellet, filter/scrubby end for whole leaf. (just dont try to mix pellet with whole leaf or you're screwed.)

dont touch it for at least a week. no reason to secondary, unless you really want to. i would just let it sit in there for 3 weeks and let the yeast do it's thing.

force CO2 carbonation should have no effect on flavor. the general act of carbing will impart some flavor components as you are in-effect adding some amount of carbonic acid to the beer, along with making it fizzy. the acid effect gives beer the bright crisp flavor of a freshly carbonated...