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So I already racked to the secondary,and took some yeast with it. The new cover has a much tighter airlock, so maybe I'll see what happens. I also moved it to slightly warmer location not far from the furnace (but not too close either). I'll give it a week, since I dont have time to do anything...

If you mean what techniques do we use to lower the temperature quickly, then thats easy: I dont do a full boil, I have about 2-3 gallons in the pot. the pot is placed into a sink with ice, salt and cold water. I use all the ice in ice dispenser (from freezer), but you could use a whole bag...

The temperature is 68. It has been in the primary now for 13 days. I will look up the beano solution. Should I move this to a secondary or maybe still too early?

Since I keep kosher, i can answer this. All beer , unflavored, is kosher. There is no grape in it, so the apfelwein should be ok also. Assure your friend that you cook these things in equipment dedicated to beer, and that you would never use a sponge that had been used to clean your kitchen pots...

using an extract recipe from Midwest , The Hex Nut brown Ale. OG was 1.041 and the recipe called for 1.042, so that was ok. I used standard Muntons yeast (big mistake, I know), and it bubbled for about 1 day, much less than other batches I've made. So I added a Nottingham yeast. No activity...

I plan on making a simple wheat beer, 6 lbs wheat-malt extract (65% wheat), tettanger hops 1oz. White Labs 300. I was not planning on using any crystal malt. Will this a reasonable wheat style beer? I want to keep it light, been making many heavier darker beers this year. thanks

Unless something "happened" to your yeast before you used, it should be fine. I have an empty vial here from a batch of English style ale, and it came out just fine. What do you mean "went south"? what happened? I do always make a starter- boil about 2 gms malt extract in 600 ml water, add...

I think he means bottle conditioning for four weeks. (Right?) If its stopped bubbling, you can move it to a secondary (to help clarify it). Basically, you're making a "steam beer", that is, using lager yeast at an ale temperature. If it tastes fine now, it'll be fine later.

Regarding temperature: I use "ambient", meaning..whatever it is in my basement, thats what it will be. I brew summer and winter. Sometimes it takes longer, sometimes shorter. The solid bubbling for three days should have done it. How much extract and DME is in this? Also, re-calculate the...

Sounds like it didnt ferment long enough. Did you take a hydrometer reading? Too much sugar left in brew usually means the yeast didnt finish the job. Boil...should be a long boil, most recipes, like 30-60 minutes at a nice roiling boil. If you didnt boil, thats part of the problem too.

Thank you. I now see a few bubbles coming up, it just looks different than the other yeasts. I will use it tonight.

I was in the process of making of an American style cream ale, using White Labs WLP001 It is slow in starting (in a flask) so I am thinking of using Plan B, some dry yeast I happen to have. I have a Nottingham, and a Muntons, neither of which have designation on them, so I dont know what type...

I have been making starters for my White Labs vials, I seem to get good results. The last two vials I bought were mail order and arrived, after waiting a day at someones house, at 72 degrees. Ice had melted. I started it today, and maybe I'm impatient, but after 7 hours, I expect a little...

Making an English ale from a kit, OG was 1.056 and now its reading 1.015, so I am going to rack it to secondary. I tasted the beer from the hydrometer tube (and almost no more bubbling), and it tastes like beer, but a "softness" almost like its a bit weakly carbonated. Does that sound normal.

I am about to get back into homebrew after a hiatus. I never used a carboy, just a 5 gallon plastic tub; never did a secondary. What exactly is the purpose of using a carboy versus a standard pail or tub?