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  1. C

    Way too many hops by mistake.

    I assume you mean heresy right? :D I get that people hop more than what I have, but as was mentioned by Clayton, it was 3 oz in for the whole 60 boil, nothing more. So it's not the quantity that's the problem, rather the AA utilization (from what I read). So thanks all, I'm just gonna move it...
  2. C

    Way too many hops by mistake.

    Lol. Yeah only because of the bitterness that hits though. Thanks to whoever put the numbers through that program, 120 IBUs looks ridiculously high from what I read at International Bitterness Units scale - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
  3. C

    Way too many hops by mistake.

    Thanks for all replies, to those saying you can never have too many hops I guarantee this brew would have you spitting it right out. It's not a nice kind of bitterness, but rather a harsh back of the throat feeling, kinda like munching back on a whole lot of orange peel. The weird this is the...
  4. C

    Way too many hops by mistake.

    Sure, 1 can light LME - 1.5kg/3.3lb 2 bags of light DME, unhopped - total: 1kg/2.2lb 100g NZ green bullet, Alpha 11.7 Saflager S-23 yeast Partial boil, final volume 20 litres (5.28 gallons) Cheers.
  5. C

    Way too many hops by mistake.

    I've started trying to do things a bit more "by hand", I used to buy a kit and sugar but then I migrated to hopped extract and using a good yeast. My next step was to buy unhopped extract and do my own hop additions. What a mistake. I didn't read up about AAUs or anything else to do...
  6. C

    Yeast starters for dry yeast

    Thanks for replies, now that I'm re-reading the book b John Palmer, I think I may have been confusing "yeast starter" with "rehydrating the yeast" ..
  7. C

    Yeast starters for dry yeast

    Just had a look here, Yeast Starters - Home Brewing Wiki and noticed this part in particular Dry yeasts do not require a starter. Making a starter with dry yeast can be detrimental to their performance because they can use their nutrient reserves before pitching. And even more...
  8. C

    Conditioning: room temp vs refridgerator

    Just wondering, how much of a difference is there between bottle/keg conditioning at room temp and in the fridge? I normally put my bottles in the fridge 4-5 days after bottling (to keep the dusk off them mainly), am I missing out on anything by not conditioning them in the (relative) warmth...
  9. C

    FG stable but too high? :(

    Then you can throw some ice into the water? Seriously though I don't know. Where I live in NZ it is cold enough that the water stays around 12-14 degrees and I'm having to heat it rather than cool it...
  10. C

    Moving from canned extracts to the "real way"

    I've made quite a few batches now using what I assume is the way most beginners start, a can of malt stuff (please excuse my naming - it's just how I see it), and a bag of sugar stuff... I'm now ready to take the plunge and start using ... ... ahhh what am I meant to be using??? The...
  11. C

    FG stable but too high? :(

    I use a system where the fermenter sits inside a halved plastic barrel 3/4 immersed in water. There is an aquarium heater, pump (to ensure even heating) and a temperature probe all in the water. Keeps the water outside the fermeneter (and hopefully therefore, the stuff inside the fermenter) at...
  12. C

    General question about kegging systems and aging

    G'day, I'm looking at buying a kegging system, I'm not new to homebrew but new to kegging. Something I can't get my head around is to do with aging brews after kegging, from what I've read you simply empty the uncarbonated beer into the keg, hook up the CO2, and about three days later, you're...
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