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I don't have a solution either, but from what I've seen around here, water treatment is typically talked about in 2 ways: 1) A local filter on the brew stand. Usually just a carbon filter or similar. 2) Starting with distilled or some other type of processed water, and making additions to get it...

depends what your budget is. I do 5 gallon batches in a 15 gallon kettle, so I have the ability to 10 gallon batches too if I want. At first, I went the "cheap" route. My MLT (former boil kettle) is a bayou classic which I added a sightglass, thermometer, and ball valve to. My new boil kettle...

Couple things off the top of my head -- Things like thermowells/thermometers, outlets, etc might not be placed well for small batches. For example, a thermometer might be at the 10 gallon mark, and would be useless in a 5 gallon batch. The other thing to be aware of is that for larger kettles...

I think you have an extra "load from power" wire in there. Basically, the 2 wires from the refrigerator should go to the 2 "loading" posts on the ITC-2000, and the neutral/hot from the power should be connected to the 2 posts labeled "110V/AC".. at least, that's how I would wire it. I don't have...

It depends on the orifice being used. The BG12 that came with my SQ14 is high pressure, and has a high pressure orifice.

Had a request over PM, so here's the sketchup file. Just remove the .xml extension and unpack the zip file for the .skp file.

I think the main challenge would be keeping everything sealed properly. To have both a collar and a wood enclosure on the outside, you'd need a collar thick enough (almost like a "double collar") to both seal the keezer and match up with the wood enclosure. Didn't find any threads on something...

Thanks :) The heat deflector works surprisingly well. A LOT of heat comes out the sides and back of the pot, but the front is noticeably cooler to the point I don't need any further heat shielding. The only change I would possibly make is to just make the front heat deflector a bit longer so...

My new 2-tier that I finished a couple weekends ago. More info over at https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=583570

That is one huge boil kettle

Make sure you don't have any options checked when printing that would alter the scale .. like "fit to page" which is on by default when printing most PDFs. Edit -- looks like the PDF image may just be too large.

After several years of all-grain brewing, I'm still not 100% clear on something... when you mash out, is the temperature of the water going into the mash supposed to be 170 degrees, or is the grain bed temperature supposed to be 170 degrees (implying that the water going in would have to be much...

Some more details.. I used 14 gauge 1&1/2" square tubing for the main stand, and 16 gauge 1&1/4" tubing for the shelf and wheel mounts. Most of the bolts/clevis pins/etc are just 3/8 size in whatever length I needed The stand is painted with rustoleum high heat black gloss paint. I scoured...

The wheels are removable as well. Conveniently, they can fit into the same openings that the shelves go into. That means during storage mode, I can wheel the stand around upright if I wanted to. Just for some more detail, here are the burner mounts from underneath. I added in a...

Being an engineer, I planned everything out first. I had 2 15 gallon kettles, and a cooler mash tun to accommodate for (and planned for the future possibility of a kettle mash tun). Here's the finished stand: It took some experimenting, but I came up with a 4 fin + "heat blocking bar" for...

I meant to keep a diary of progress as I built, but I was really bad about taking pictures along the way, so here's some details on my newly finished 2 tier stand. I was considering a single tier, but didn't like them for various reasons (storage space, needing a second pump to do fly...

I kept playing with it some more, and I think I'm going to simplify the design a bit using a crosshair pattern to hold the pot instead of a diamond. Should allow venting, and it will be easier to cut/weld.

Thanks for the suggestion. That's the only other thing I could think of as well without changing up some other items on the frame.

I'm designing a 2-tier brewing stand similar to the sabco brew magic, and will be using a blichmann burner for the boil kettle. I've seen several stands use the diamond bracing pattern to mount the burner and hold the kettle. On my stand, I'll be using a pot instead of a keggle for the boil...

How about mounting options for the Blichmann? Is it capable of being mounted in a (non-Blichmann) stand, or it is it strictly for floor use?