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As far as recommended reading I'd say "Wild Brews" by Jeff Sparrow. As for commercial sours to try, I'm a big fan of the Jolly Pumpkin line up along with anything Cantillon of course. You can also check out http://www.themadfermentationist.com/ always something interesting to read there.

If those methods you espouse make what you consider to be "good" beer that’s great, continue on, I'm not gonna call you out on it. But claiming things like introduction of O2 post fermentation doesn’t cause oxidation or finely ground grain husks don't contribute to tannin issues is...

I think the 525ss were a great upgrade from the standard faucet, no sticking, no dripping. I think they were $28-30. I saw somewhere that there is also a Perlick forward sealing faucet with a flow control knob now, I'd be curious to see how well they work.

I think out of style is out of style. If a beer doesn't reasonably fit within SRM/IBU/ABV etc its out of style. Taking Dopplebock as an example, BJCP has Paulaner Salvator as the first commercial example that exemplifies the style. So what would an "accurate" recipe for a dopplebock be? Lets say...

I don't think I'm misunderstanding you, rather I'm disagreeing with you. And I'm ok with that.

By this, I feel like you are implying that because a recipe may not use traditional ingredients and or a traditional process, that it can't be a good example of a classic style. This ignores what i think is more important; the overall impression of the beer, regardless of how it was created.

There was an online study course talked about on The Brewing Network a couple weeks ago. Do You Want to Pass the BJCP Exam? | Beer Judge Education I haven't taken it so I can't provide a recommendation, but it may be something to look into.

And you're basing this on a recipe for a Vienna Lager, that you feel is not as historically accurate as it should be? The title of the book is "Brewing Classic Styles - 80 Winning Recipes Anyone Can Brew" not "Brewing Classic Styles - 80 Definitive, Historically Accurate Recipes" And if you're...

I guess if you are looking for proven award winning recipes to brew, then BCS would be a pretty good start. As for the recipe formulations, its pretty tough to argue when Jamil is one the most award winning homebrewers ever. I have the book and have brewed a number of the beers in it and been...

Well I'm not sure about the Lindemann's products; I’m not really familiar with them. Other than the Faro, which I think by definition is back sweetened? My understanding of Duchesse being back sweetened was based entirely on word-of-mouth and of course various posts on the interwebs...

So does this mean that a Belgian brewer using American hops isn't brewing Belgian beer? What if a Belgian brewer uses malt from France or Germany, does this make that brewers beer less Belgian? What even defines a Belgian beer? We're talking about Flanders Red, so strictly speaking that would...

42072 +10 APA +5 Flanders Red +5 Belgian Wit +5 APA +5 Imperial Porter +10 Saison 42112

I've been thinking about this myself, have you gone any further with this?

I’m no expert but my understanding of the situation is this… I'm pretty sure enterobacteria is only a factor during the initial phase of Lambic fermentation and quickly dies off during fermentation as the ph drops and alcohol increases. If I remember correctly some really nasty...

I think acetic is a longer term issue, Acetobacter converting ethanol to acetic acid? I assume the sacc. contained in the blend would make short work of any initial aeration that's done.

In relation to eliminating chlorine in water, wouldn't that be a different chemical process? The campden and chlorine binding and becoming somethig inert? I dunno, i'm certainly no chemist.

If you've added campden to stop fermentation, wouldn't the environment still be toxic to the new yeast/bugs/whatever you're adding? Or are the active ingredients in campden volatile and lost after x amount of time? My gut says there's no point in tossing more good ingredients after bad.

Mustangj, did you end up brewing this?

I used the Wyeast Roselare straight up. My concern with using a neutral strain prior to the bugs was, it wouldn't be sour enough. I also added oak when i went to secondary, 1oz medium toast french.

I'm no expert but based on the input from a few experienced brewers, I transferred to glass after the initial sacc. ferment, around two weeks. Apparently leaving it long term on the dregs from the sacc. ferment will significantly enhance the funk beer, and as you mention having it longterm in...