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  1. mbird

    Gravity question

    This can vary depending on several conditions, but the average primary fermentation is 5 to 7 days for ales. You should judge whether fermentation is complete by taking a sample after fermentation activity subsides. 75-80% attenuation is a good number to look for. If this is achieved, then rack...
  2. mbird

    Hot break

    I don't think the fermenting vessel has much to do with it. The hot break is important for the quality and clarity of the final beer. It helps coagulate proteins and the vigorous boil drives off DMS. But the baffling thing for me here is the fermentation between your two batches. Are these...
  3. mbird

    Feliz Navidad

    Just wanted to wish everyone a Merry Christmas and a prosperous new year with plenty of homebrewed beer. From San Miguel de Allende, Mexico and the smallest brewery in the world. Cheers! mark www.backyardbrewer.blogspot.com
  4. mbird

    Planning next upgrade - chiller questions

    I would invest in a large plate chiller. This will work on a gravity fed system and is very efficient in terms of cooling to waste water usage. Duda Diesel is probably the best value. When you order, specify the fittings that are threaded for configuring and adapting to future systems. Just my...
  5. mbird

    Oxyclean Vs. Star-san

    Oxyclean is a detergent not a sanitizer. It definately needs to be rinsed thoroughly and followed with star-san or Iodiphor sanitizer before racking the wort. Cheers! mark www.backyardbrewer.blogspot.com
  6. mbird

    Final Gravity = Fully fermented?

    I figure it like this: o.g. less f.g. devided by o.g. or (.058 - .015 = .043)/(.058) mark www.backyardbrewer.blogspot.com
  7. mbird

    Final Gravity = Fully fermented?

    Sorry, just read the original post and saw that you got a 74% attenuation. mark www.backyardbrewer.blogspot.com
  8. mbird

    Final Gravity = Fully fermented?

    You should have some expectations of proper attenuation regarding final gravity. Wyeast will tell you what the attenuation should be for the type of yeast you used. Taking a sample and confirming that you reached the gravity range of that yeast is the best way to determine if the beer has...
  9. mbird

    Is this reg worth saving?

    Used regs. are pretty common. I've purchased complete regulators ready to use for my tanks at a local used tools place and they only cost about $12-$16 mark www.backyardbrewer.blogspot.com
  10. mbird

    Using Rice as Adjunct

    I regularly use Minute or instant rice directly in the mash. No need for a cereal mash and this makes for great Am. lagers and cream ales. Cheers! Here's the recipe: http://backyardbrewer.blogspot.com/2010/12/brewing-lagers.html mark www.backyardbrewer.blogspot.com
  11. mbird

    Need to secondary before kegging?

    I never use a seconday. I ferment in the primary until it's done and the krausen drops leaving the surface clear. I then rack to the kegs and do my best to minimize the transfer of yeast from the bottom of the fermentor. I immediately force carbonate and let the beer condition and clear in the...
  12. mbird

    Learning Spanish

    Tele-novelas (Mexican soap operas) are most recommended but I've also heard that the Spanish dubbed 'Simpson's' is helpful. Buenas suerte! mark www.backyardbrewer.blogspot.com
  13. mbird

    Slightly low attenuation

    I'd be o.k. with 70% attenuation but I've also done this - http://backyardbrewer.blogspot.com/2012/06/lowering-gravity-with-brett.html as a way of being creative around under-attenuated beers. Cheers! mark www.backyardbrewer.blogspot.com
  14. mbird

    hop question

    I believe that whole hops are 2% less in terms of hop utilization. I believe this is across the board regardless of boil time. So if you are assuming 27% utilization for pellets in a 60 minute boil then plan to extract 25% for whole hops in the same time period. Hope this helps, mark...
  15. mbird

    Force carbination

    There are a few things to consider when force carbonating your beer. First is the amount or volume of co2 that you want and the temperature of the beer you want to carbonate. I've attached a video from my blog that talks and shows how I do it...
  16. mbird

    Is this grain crush ok?

    I personally crush my grain far more than pictured above. I'm not afraid of a stuck sparge and haven't had one yet dispite the severe crush I inflict on my grain. I would recommend further crushing if you can. The crush is the single best way of improving your efficiency. I get about 85-90%...
  17. mbird

    Lautering 10-gallon batches

    I don't lauter. But, when I sparge I use the same amount of time whether 5 or 10 gal. which is 40-45mins. There is no hard set rules on time for me just what is most efficient at the extraction and for me it's 40 mins. mark www.backyardbrewer.blogspot.com
  18. mbird

    VERY bitter!

    What were your hop additions? Qty's, AA%'s, Utilization%'s ? This information will be helpful in figuring this out. Another thought - What temp was your fermentation? mark www.backyardbrewer.blogspot.com
  19. mbird

    Your favorite homebrew

    Pabst Blue Ribbon Clone http://backyardbrewer.blogspot.com/2010/12/brewing-lagers.html that I did a side by side comparison with and couldn't tell the difference. Secondly, my Dog Fish Head Midas Touch clone http://backyardbrewer.blogspot.com/2010/11/midas-touch-clone.html that was close but...
  20. mbird

    First brew, worried about exploding bottles

    Zee, as I pointed out, allowing the beer to finish fermenting is paramount. But, if the beer is finished fermenting and your attenuation is only 65%, there is a large % of sugar that is most likely long chains that the yeast is unable to deal with (metabolize). Once you bottle, the yeast will...
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