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*chuckle* Thanks. Yes, it is a bit of overkill, but it should make my kettle and fermenter unitank cleaning much easier and less wasteful. Right now, I'm just doing a loop back test and heating the water and testing the pump. The final keg (keep in mind, this will be a Sankey keg with the keg...

Thank you! That is working perfectly now! I see a new sheet in my google drive, and the TiltBridge home page now shows the beer name I picked on the google sheets and says it is shared (it didn't say this before and I never got any new sheets). What great support on XMas day! :D BR, Jeff...

P.S. On a side note, I've followed the logging to Google Sheets instructions to a T twice now and first, there is no "publish" that I can find in the script editor (there is a Deploy button now?) and that pulls up a blank page that you have to click on the gear icon. Maybe minor, and I know...

This is fantastic! I *asked* for a Tilt for Christmas, and while I was hopeful/semi-sure my wife got one, I wasn't certain. But I decided to start looking at the Tilt hardware info and pairing and look into reflashing my raspberry pi 4 with the necessary support stuff. That's when I found...

I use a 5500W 220v RIMS tube heater on my brew frame. Maybe a bit of overkill for your application (and you'll need a 30A GFCI 220v circuit), but I just got done building my Keg washer and kettle CIP cart, and it makes use of this. Can be built from parts on Amazon for under $150...and you can...

I finally finished my version of a cheap (relative) self contained recirculation pump to flush and sanitize kegs as well as use for CIP work on my kettles and fermenter unitanks. I have 1/2" tail pieces in my wash Sankey keg tap and the whole system uses 1.5" TC fittings for the supply and...

Frown. I don't think it should leak at all, and humidity shouldn't be too much of a problem right now anywhere (ok...northern hemisphere) to make that be culprit....

Ugh...I hope this is just YOU (grin...sorry, hate to pick on you, but after all the massive modifications I've made, I would like to think it will last a bit, cause I ain't returning it now...LoL). BR, Jeff

FWIW, I got everything fully upgraded to 3 new InkBird ITC-1000's. Full heater/Fahrenheit function and wasn't too hard. The primary was very easy. The others required me to get out my angle grinder with a cut-wheel on it to take off the tabs of the front panel, but once those were gone and...

I just got my $15 Inkbird panel mount controllers in and the main chiller controller is a drop in replacement. The front two vessels take a little metal work, but after one of my controllers had a busted post that contacts the front press panel, I just went ahead. That and while I had Celsius...

LoL. Welcome to the rat race. You upgrade one part of your system that is currently "limiting" you only to find that now makes something else your limiting factor... For me, I just got a 1 BBL unitank (upping the game from my half bbl SS BME chronicle) only to realize there was not a great...

Using a "sacrificial" extension cord to cut and wire into the switched leg is also a GREAT idea (assuming you had to do an extension cord per vessel controller) and avoids having to cut in the square outlet to your chiller cabinet, but as you said, you end up with cords dangling out somewhere...

Yup. I’m just wanting to positively control the glycol temp. My shop can get way below freezing in winter and while I could heat it, it is expensive. Just like to have heater keeping glycol bath at 10’C if I set it there. I agree, I will still need the heating mats. And probably need one of the...

/nod. that was why I went with a wired outlet. I can swap out heaters or whatever as long as it is 120v plug. Honestly, I'm just going to replace the STC-1000 with an ITC-1000 inkbird for $15 that has 'C and 'F *and* has a heating relay output and wire that up to the 300W fish tank heater and...

I just got a couple cheap 20W seedling mat heaters on amazon. It is slow, but so far it is enough to maintain. I have a 500W fish tank heater that I was hoping would work with a relay on the STC1000, but it doesn't have one so I'm going to have to replace it with an inkbird and wire that in...

You CAN just switch the HOT side (even though it is 12v controlled, not 120v it is isolated and works). Just run a hot wire from the main switch to one of the spades, then out of the other one to an outlet (other side of outlet back to neutral on switch and earth ground). Or you can wire up...

The STC1000 does NOT have heating relay blades on it. I wish it did, so I could put a fish tank heater in the reservoir and use the fluid to "heat" a higher than ambient target. The heating relays are ONLY on the independent vessel controllers (these are not STC1000, but not sure what model...

I hard wired in the heating relays on mine today to an outlet on the lid and confirmed they work as expected to power some 120v seed mats for heating. Unlike the Kegland manual posted (which is for 240v version), this does NOT have mains on the controllers and motors. They are 12v. But the...

Just running through the numbers, even with 25% heat losses (which is pretty typical for most systems) those times are roughly more like 1200W x2 elements. I've got an XLS sheet to help compute times for delta temps and volumes based on different heaters. It's just math on the specific heat of...