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I split my brew process into three days. Day 1 - setup the mash and all other equipment. boil total water needed with Campden. Let cool. 1 hour. Day 2 - Heat water, mash, vorlauf, sparge then boil. No chill. 3 hours. Day 3 - Pitch and ferment in boiler. 2 minutes. Breaking up between mash...

vinification [ˌvinəfəˈkāSH(ə)n] NOUN the conversion of grape juice or other vegetable extract into wine by fermentation.

The only place I would think could be a problem would be something getting trapped between the O ring and the body or between the washer and the body. Unlikely but...............

Sweet. That should help. Jeez. That is really useful. Thx

That looks like half inch FPT to me. You would measure the inside diameter not the outside diameter. FPT means female pipe thread. You would put a male pipe thread into…..,,,,,Well you know. ;)

FG dropping by .0009 maybe?

I make ales with Omega British Ale VIII. It is a slow starting high flocculating yeast and has a krausen of 1 in at high point. I think the flavors are perfect fit with Fuggle. If that fits your tastes, great but there are some yeasts that would fill your 1 gallon with just blow off.

I use quick disconnects from a brew supplier to the north. I am sure they are as good as most other QD but you only get what you pay for. I do not love them. They work as promised but if I were starting over I would invest in tri clamp. Battling leaks at the most inconvenient moments is...

Outstanding. Thank you for your experience based recommendations. I’ m in.

I use it only on my thickest mashes which do take longer. After you do the same mash several times and check for conversion you will be able to accurately predict where you are in the process. It is a useful tool when correctly done IMO.

I thought about doing that once. Then I found G Washington's recipe using pine needles for bittering. No Thanks.

Great point. This batch could easily be out of balance. I will likely blend it with something later if that is the result. In future I will make much later hop additions. That is the kind of fact based info I like about this forum. Thanks again.

Cool. Thanks. Will do.

I agree. Fermentation at .06 away from FG should be enough to keep positive pressure in the vessel, right? I can get easy no O2 sample from the vessel outlet.

I brew British Bitters. I understand your feeling. The cooling I use is fine for temp control but not robust enough for cooling boiling wort in a reasonable time. After the 60 min boil I put the lid on for 5 minutes and then flame out. I don’t open the kettle until I oxygenate and pitch the...

I taped the temp controller sensor to the lid and covered it with some of the insulating material you can see in the background. That controller matches the temp seen on the pot's thermometer. Should be sufficient. Set the controller to sixty-six. The basement temp is 68 year roundin this location .

I have brewed on and off since 1995. I do not brew competitively. My beer falls reasonably clear as I use Omega British Ale VIII in 1.044 to 1.060 bitters. SRM runs from 8 to 12. Whenever a good selection of imported bitters get pushed out of the grocery store, I make beer. In the 90's it was...

If you are concerned about O2 exposure from fermenting in the kettle, you could transfer to your keg at the tail end of fermentation (with a few points to go) and then spund. Your beer would finish fermenting there without O2 and also be carbonated for you. That is the plan. Thanks

I reviewed some posts from the past and the concerns seem to be the ones mentioned so far and these: 1. tying up the brew vessel. ( i would transfer with .06 to go to the serving keg) My beers get there in about 6 or 7 days. That would work for me. 2. Some suggested putting saran wrap or other...

That protein being in the fermentation does what, do you think? Hazing possibly? Is flavor impacted? I haven't pulled the string yet.