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Yep it is the latent heat that is the danger with steam, huge amount of energy release as it condenses.

Temp is almost never a good measure of heat content. (what has more heat energy a hot bath or an iceberg?) When you are at the boil the energy you are adding goes to breaking the bond between the molecules. In order to do thus you need to add energy. Once the bonds are broken the water is in...

This is where commonly used English breaks down. When water boils it turns into water vapour which is invisible. The stuff you see is water that has already condensed into very fine droplets, condensing from vapour to liquid releases a huge amount of energy in the form of heat. This is how...

This might be a numpty question but if you are capturing all the steam why is the boil off rate lower? With a lower boil off rate doesnt that mean that some steam must be condensing on the lid and returning to the wort which I thought was a no no?

Thanks What are people using for the feed pipe and the fitting through the top cap? Anyone know where you can get a suitable spray nozzle in the UK/EU?

I am finding it hard to find any instructions or a bom for this great idea, can someone please point me in the right direction? Being in the UK carriage costs are putting me off purchasing a ready made one.

I would be interested if it is still available.

Is this a Type S Doc Well it is one way of doing it.

You seem to be having the same problem as me....

Ahh OK so no PWM on the TA4, thanks for the info.

Are these Sankey Type "S"? Keg S Type? by RidleyRumpus posted Jan 2, 2019 at 6:35 PM Keg Coupler by RidleyRumpus posted Jan 2, 2019 at 6:34 PM

What is the difference between the TA4 and TD4? What makes the TD4 suitable for controlling the boil (but presumably the TA4 not so)?