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Does anybody know if something like this fan would work? HURRICANE 736520 Fan, Classic 6"-Clip, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IGFJFSY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_iuXlEbX5DGWM0 I’m thinking of clipping this into the side of my kettle and have it blowing towards an open door. It says it’s about...

You're probably right, a box fan sounds like a good idea. I'll probably go that route before I spend a bunch of money on a quasi vent hood setup. KISS, right? I'll update in the next couple weeks as to how it works. Thanks!

I don't want to mount anything other than the control box to the Husky - but I like the idea of a standing frame. I might be able to build what you're talking about and add some rubber feet to the bottom to avoid slippage. It'll be a tight fit though - need to take some measurements. Thanks for...

Hey All, I used my new brew stand (Husky tool cart) for the first time the other day and got a sh*t load of condensation on the wall that it backs up to as well as the molding on the ceiling. Before the stand, I'd brew on the ground in the middle of my apartment and never noticed any...

Thank you everyone for the help - couldn’t have done it without you. Just had our first brew day Saturday and the system worked great - NEIPA is fermenting now. I attached a couple pics - just the control box and the system on brew day. Now all I have to do is figure out a way to hold the grain...

Ok understood. I have a switch rated for 120v 20a laying around somewhere. The way I’m thinking about wiring this is like so: take one of my hot lines and run it to ground with a resistor in between. Should it look like this? 120v —— resistor —— switch —— ground Or this? 120v —— switch ——...

Quick question on implementing this test switch on my box. What kind of switch should I use? What voltage & current does it need to be rated for?

Thanks @BeardedBrews!

@doug293cz I put together an updated wiring diagram (rough sketch). I've decided to go with the leviton 3032 type switches for my main power to box as well as my element switch. The pump is running on 12v DC so I can use an old switch I have lying around.

Ok, so scrap the 12v switch / relay for the element cut-off. I can either replace it with a 2-pole switch (like this leviton one) or a contactor (220v coil) with a switch. Can the switch I use with the contactor be rated for 240v 3a (that's what I have on hand)? Is there any difference between...

The goal of that switch is to be able to make the element "cool" in the event that the SSR fails closed, PID overshoots, etc. Wouldn't the spa panel gfci protect me from electrical shock in the instance of a broken element or current leak somewhere else? I wanted to avoid using another 2 pole...

I put together a rough wiring diagram for the control box - it’s attached. If somebody could give it a once-over I’d appreciate it. Please let me know if you need clarification on anything. FYI, the 2 circles with “S” written in them are 12v DC switches.

Quick question about your suggestion of using a rPi (I'd use an arduino instead because I have some on hand). I had an arduino in my last setup that I was running from my 120v source (hot & neutral connected to an iPhone block converter then to the arduino). If that converter is rated for 240v...

Took it off and there was no access to the wall behind it. I can see the wall in the original picture I sent but can't see the outlet. Oh well, looks like I'll have to go with the original plan of using the 220v outlet in my bedroom. Thanks for the suggestion though, I appreciate it.

@pullapint I just got home from work and pulled that panel off. I'm not sure if I did it right, maybe I'm supposed to take the sub panel off too? See the attached picture to get an idea of what I'm working with.

@doug293cz thank you for the clarification. If you were in my shoes, would you use that 220v outlet in combination with the spa panel gfci and a 3500w element OR would you use 2 1650w elements that get their power from 2 separate 120v 20a circuits located in my kitchen. I did some measuring and...

Great, wasn't aware of 240v coil contactors. If I use a contactor, does that mean that my switches won't see the ~16 amps of current my element is drawing?

I have a contactor from my last set up but I was under the impression you need a neutral for that to work, right?

I have a Leviton light switch - that is what served as my main power switch for my old box. I'd like to use components I have on hand and I have two switches that look like they're rated for 10 amps. Can I switch 1 of my 2 hot legs with my switch that's rated for 10a and effectively kill power...

Ok, great info @doug293cz and @IslandLizard - thank you again. I'll be moving forward with this build asap. Quick question, does anybody know where I can source some 240v 20a switches? The ones from my old control box were rated for 120v and I had them switching a contactor. The only thing I see...