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I've kettle soured two beers with fat free Greek yogurt (Greek gods brand and Fage brand). For both I made a 1 L starter with 4 tsp yogurt, kept warm with an electric blanket for 48 hours and pitched the whole thing in the mash. Before pitching I bring the whole mash to a simmer for 5 minutes...

Right. But assume for a moment that I'm too lazy for purging, because I often am. The question is how to minimize oxidation while optimizing laziness.

The above two posts represent the two sides of the argument in my mind. Assuming an open transfer, which oxidizes the beer more? Warm beer is more reactive in an oxidative reaction, but cold crashing draws in some air and beer can absorb more gas at lower temperatures. Which is best?

Makes sense! Thanks for the link! I'll continue to cold crash before racking, then!

If it's done fermenting, you're not going to get bottle bombs. The yeast can't generate any more CO2 than what you feed it. Assuming your primary is completely over, you're good to go. For what it's worth, I like my ciders more fizzy than beer. They don't have enough protein to hold a head...

Hi brewers! This year marked my 10th year of homebrewing and this forum was instrumental in those first years! Couldn't find an answer via the googles, and I'm a better biology student than a chemistry student: is beer more prone to oxidation if racked warm or cold? Example: would it be...

I haven't shopped there in years, and since they sold out, I never will.

It's a fantastic yeast when fermented cool. As others have stated, let it go too warm and the flavor becomes yeasty, green, harsh and unpleasant. Time and cold knock much of that flavor down, but the twang never completely subsides. I wouldn't dump it yet.

This is funny to read 6 years and hundreds of double batch sparged brews later!

No doubt some did die! I'm impressed it made acceptable beer! Interested in more input from others.

Edit: wrong thread!

I move my fermentor first thing in a kegging session. By the time the keg is washed/sanitized I'd wager the fermentor has had 20 or so minutes to settle. I move my fermentors as gently as I can.

It's hard to see on my phone but those could be little rafts of mold growing on the surface. While mold looks gross it doesn't always make the beer taste/smell gross. Pull a sample. If it tastes OK then package it. Some bottles might develop their own little rafts, perhaps none will. Or...

It's a minute difference in the big scheme of things. I'd average the two since you can't resample now.

Nice! RDWHAH comes to mind. ;)

If it was my beer, I just roll with it as it is and let it be a lesson learned for next time. If the block of sugar at the bottom of the fermenter is substantial and you just can't let it be, I'd simmer up an extra pound or so of sugar on the stove, cool it and add it into the fermenter.

I'd chalk it up to a high mash temp paired with 17% crystal malts in the recipe. That's quite a lot, especially considering you will have a lot of malt intensity already thanks to the Vienna, dark Munich and melanoidin malts.

Way to make it work! Sounds like you're going to need to scale up your equipment this Christmas!

It's possible that the sugar brick will dissolve some into the wort and be fermented to some degree. Sugar has to be in solution (dissolved) for yeast to work on it -- sacc doesn't have teeth after all! The safest way to add sugar (as you likely already know) is to ladle 1/2 gallon of boiling...

4 oz of dry hops is pretty light for a Pliny clone. I'd double them next time!