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I second FromZwolle - leave it be for another 7-10 days and bottle/keg it. Temperature is less important at this point, although I wouldn't let it get out of hand. 68 degrees won't hurt it now IMO.

I did a lot of extract and PM batches on my stovetop with a 3.5 gallon pot when starting out. Bigger is better, but if you go much bigger than 5 gallons you probably won't be able to get a decent uncovered boil on an electric.

I would wait another 5-7 days before taking the reading. Revvy's point is not that you should take a reading now, but that you should only trust a hydrometer reading to tell you whether things have stalled or not. If it was bubbling a few days ago, it's very likely fine. It will generally...

I've had the best luck waiting until FG has been reached before racking to secondary. For the most part I give it 10-14 days in primary to finish, check the gravity and then rack to secondary for another 2 weeks.

Well, it may not lower commercial beer prices but it has already lowered my cost of brewing by a couple of bucks per batch. It's nice to see hop prices dropping.

I guess I don't completely understand your question. Any yeast can lightly carbonate your beer in the carboy as it's fermenting. To get full carbonation though, you would have to seal in the pressure - which is not recommended for doing with a carboy.

I've made that recipe as a PM several times with great results. Here's how I converted it: 2.5 lbs wheat malt (I use the german red wheat) 1.75 lbs 2-row malt 5 lbs Wheat LME (or 4 lbs wheat DME) To keep the color light, I wait until the last 10 minutes to add the extract (boil size is...

I always condition a primed keg for at least 3 weeks for proper carbonation before chilling - 1 week is not usually enough, especially for a higher gravity beer. It will condition quicker at room temperature anyway, I guess I don't see the point of cold conditioning at all unless it's going to...

Nottingham or US-05, and pitch at least 2 if not three packages (rehydrated). I just did a 1.095 Russian Imperial Stout with 2 packages of Nottingham and it got down to 1.020 in less than two weeks (about 9% ABV). I figure it will be ready to drink next summer for my oldest son's 21st :ban:

I have 2 boxes of EZ Cap bottles (16 oz), every time I use them I get 4-5 flat bottles in the batch. I have replaced all of the gaskets at least once and I still get them - I guess I should mark the offending bottles and be sure they are always the same ones. Never had a problem with a Grolsch...

Mash as much grain as you comfortably can and try to mash on the low side (150). Then wait until the last 10 minutes of the boil to add your extract and you should come out with a pretty light colored beer. I've been surprised with how light colored I've been able to make some beers - even...

I much prefer US-05 for the pales, ambers and IPAs that I make most often - Nottingham is certainly fine for those styles but it just doesn't taste quite as neutral to me as 05 so I tend to use the Notty more in porters, stouts, ESBs - more english styles. I personally haven't had any troubles...

This is the main reason you're getting a lot of sediment. If you let it go another 2 weeks (either in a secondary carboy or in the original primary) you will have a fraction of the bottle sediment you're seeing now - without filtering or even using finings. I get only a light dusting on the...

Adding water at this point just to reduce the gravity will not prevent bottle bombs. It's not simply a function of a certain final gravity; bottle bombs happen when fermentation is not complete and there is excess sugar that ultimately ferments along with your priming sugar. If your...

I've seen them before so I'm sure they exist. Problem is, you have to drink a hand pumped keg right away because it goes flat and oxidizes quickly when pumped with air. I'd consider one of the small CO2 cylinder systems instead for portable serving, it's probably cheaper than a stainless pump...

I always use whole cones to dry-hop with - I only had slightly grassy flavors once when I left them for 12 days, but after bottle conditioning everything tasted fine. I agree that after 5-6 days you'll have about all you can get from dry hops. I bet it mellows out if you give it a couple...

Should be nice and malty, looks good to me for an English pale.

Munich has enough enzymes to convert itself so you don't need to match that with 2 row, but it becomes very important when using things like flaked grains and it's a good general rule of thumb to follow. For an English brew you might consider using Maris Otter instead of US 2-row as your base...

I've found them to be quite accurate as well, but they definitely don't like to get wet. After ruining a couple, I just put them higher up on the bucket to be sure they aren't underwater in the swamp cooler.

If they've been sitting out a while or have been received from sources other than my own use (i always rinse mine directly after emptying), I give them a few hours soak in warm water and some bleach or oxyclean. That will loosen up any organic residue or mold/mildew that might be in the...