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If you have another spare cornie why not gas that up to say 80PSI and use that to pump the beer out of the cornie with beer in. :) It's certainly a lot lighter than a C02 bottle! Sorry, just thinking laterally. :)

Or to put it another way, using anything other than the tiny C02 sparklet bulbs with no way of measuring how much is going in is stupid and potentially life threatening!

Fair enough, I wasn't aware of such a thing but if that's the case then yes, I wouldn't recommend it.

I presume that you are talking about C02 in relation to the quote "not for human consumption"? C02 is C02 regardless of its intended application. Many people use welding C02 and many use fire extinguisher C02. It's all the same stuff.

I personally think 3+ weeks is too long and too much yeast is dropping out of suspension and leaving you little to perform secondary fermentation. I use cornie kegs and force carbonate so I don't suffer this issue but one beer that I've left in the primary FV has been there for 17 days and early...

Yes I apologise, I over-simplified the problem. I carb at 25PSI for 3 days at a room temperature of 19c (about 76f) then just leave it. It can be chucked in a cupboard or in a fridge, it makes no difference, just serve at 5-8PSI thereafter.

I think you're complicating issues. Forget what volume you want at final temp, carb at current temp for 3 days minimum (1 week better). Carb it at whatever temperature it's sat at and that's it, serve at that via a chiller or put it in a fridge and serve.

I know I'm going to get shot down for not using keg lube but I run 12 kegs and have never yet had to replace any seals. Once the keg is filled, hit it with 30PSI and purge a couple of times then force carb as normal. It's that 30PSI that's needed to make the seal, not 'lube'. I've not yet had to...

Against all the advice here I never use keg lube and only strip the cornie once every 5 or 6 brews. I clean the keg with regular washing up liquid and water and sanitise with a videne solution ensuring all internal surfaces of the keg come into contact with the solution (takes 1 minute of...

It could also be the line. 3/16th's offers great resistance and less foam over 3/8th's line. It's a matter of balancing pressure and resistance over a given length and diameter of line aswell as temperature.

If the lines don't have individual cut-offs then fit the pipe and a cornie disconnect to each one, the only disconnects that will allow gas through in that situation would be the ones connected to cornie kegs.

You could do that but you'll probably end up with an over-carbonated beer. I would hit it with 20-25PSI for two days then just store it until needed with no further changes to the pressure. It will likely drop over time to 5-8PSI and remain constant at that until you decide to tap it.

It could have been much worse. I've seen pictures of cornie kegs that have deformed because they've been allowed to freeze thereby rendering the oval seal useless. That would break my heart!

Don't shake it unless you're in a real rush to carbonate it as it gives the beer a carbonic bite. Follow the advice up above and allow it to carbonate steadily over 3-4 days then store until ready to drink.

Efficiency is calculated on the final estimated and actual quantity and the final estimated SG and actual SG so I'm afraid it can't be calculated at this point. Good luck on your first brew though, it's all good fun. :)

I'm in the "don't cut" camp. The first pint or two may be cloudy but should clear after that, if they don't then you need to look at the condition you put your beer into the keg in and possible chill haze.

Get them colder, you'll get more carbonation but less foam.

You're talking about batch-sparging here. Generally, the aim is to mash for 60-90 minutes at 62c-68c then top-up with sparge #1 to get the temperature upto 72c-80c, leave 10 minutes, drain to boiler then refill with batch #2 again aiming for 72c-80c, leave 10 minutes then you hopefully have your...

Hang on, did you set the pressure and then turn the gas off? C02 disolves into the beer and the pressure will drop over time if this is the case.

As per the previous poster, hit it with 30PSI and forget the keg lube. It needs that initial 'hit' to seal it and assuming the keg is near full of beer you'll use hardly any CO2.