Search results

I hate to be that guy who revives an old thread, but I had some questions about how these things work, specifically for AC current. Everywhere I've read says you can't PWM an AC circuit, let alone an inductive heating element. Obviously that isn't true as you're all doing it - so I want to...

Well it really depends cause lots of factors could change this. It could be that the PID values are incorrect for the application you are using it for. Have you tried the auto learning function which adjusts these values for your specific heating method? This helps it understand how long the...

You would have to really nail down your point of difference so that people keep coming back. If it's more of a maker-space then I could see it being more of a men's-shed (and ladies) type of idea where you can go to build your own brewing stuff. For example I'm in the process of building a...

This is a brilliant article! I'm now in the process of upgrading my yeast growing and storage systems. Thanks a bunch!

I looked into it and it turns out it's 'digital filtering', which effectively filters (smooths) any minute variations into a nominal sort of process value. Not ideal if you want to keep tight tracks on the temp. I think it's default just to keep users happy rather than have their PV jump all...

I think you are correct aha. They are a bit of a pain to use but it's what I've got. I'm going to the STC 1000 next as they support both heating and cooling and have a simpler interface. And are only $30 nz. This doesn't have any kind of logic as far as I'm aware though, so I'll keep using my...

Hi and no worries! Some types support SSR's and some don't. I also don't know what amperage those with SSR's are build for either. I hacked mine to output directly to a 40A SSR which does me fine. You can use the internal contact relay for running heat pads and whatnot though, just not a...

Hi everyone, I just found out something very important with my own rex c100, and figured others might not know either. So, it turns out the engineers who made the damn thing included a default feature that tells you an incorrect PV value just to keep you happy. I think it can be out by a...

Hey thanks everyone for pitching in! So I only need to worry if it starts actually burning or creating caramel on the element (which would be impossible for the sugar/water ratio). The pot has a 300mm/12" diameter, so the element is pretty small. It's the biggest I could get for my...

Hi guys, I did my first every electric BIAG last weekend. A few things first, I had less water in my kettle than I intended (ended up with 15L after the boil when I was going for 20L into the fermentor) and the entire batch should have about 50ibu's. I put 30g of 13% alpha hops straight in...

So I changed my mind and did a 20L kiwi hopped pale ale/esb. It was an interesting first brew day for sure! There is a big difference between learning through reading and learning through doing. I had a few issues which I'll note here for anyone who might have similar issues: So I...

Good man! The first all grain brew day is a definite lesson in itself. Glad you made some nice sounding beer in the end!

Sorry! Here are the rest of the photos. I put a locking 20A Neutrik plug thing (XLR?) on the element lead which is awesome! Such a snazzy plug - was about $20 from RubberMonkey for any NZ people out there. I also replaced the internal wiring with 15A single wiring across the plugs and...

Hi everyone, I figured I'd share my process for my first electric brewing setup. I know a lot of you have 50L + setups but I wanted to share my little 30L (max volume) kettle for those who are just starting out or have little space. So, first off I'll list all the parts and their cost and...