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I’ve been doing some research on the potassium sorbate. Others are reporting some refermentation when using sorbate alone and that sulfite/campden may need to be used to keep the sugar addition from fermenting out. I’m already hesitant in adding sorbate due to possible unwanted flavors, so...

I was planning on using potassium sorbate to prevent further fermentation, then force carbonating. Any experience with this?

I tried the lactose and didn’t like it. I went back to maple syrup, but a smaller amount. This is what I want to go with. 1 cup (8 fl oz)maple syrup in 3 gal will bring the gravity to about 1.018 where I want it. This small amount made a big difference without going too sweet. Also gonna add 3...

Good idea. I just tried a sample with maple syrup and it was too sweet. Lactose might be just what it needs. I’ll try that and report back

I have a barleywine that finished with a lower than planned final gravity. Nottingham took it from 1.090 to 1.012. I wanted it to finish around 1.018 - 1.020. The mouthfeel is too light, I’m thinking about adding potassium sorbate, backsweetening with enough maple syrup to bring the gravity up...

I did add gypsum, Epsom, and calcium chloride to my ro mash water. The recipe called for a 100:200 PPM sulfate to chloride ratio, which I did mess up by only adding enough for 50:100 PPM. It’s a New England IPA clone recipe from BYO magazine. Almost all the hops were whirlpool and I also...

I wanted to get some opinions about what I can do to have my finished IPA end up with a lower pH, say in the lower 4 range. My current finished IPA pH is at 4.5 and it tastes dull or bland. I’m using bru’n water for acid malt additions and pretty sure my mash pH is good at 5.2. I used wyeast...

Thanks, great info!

How long does it take to bring wort to boil for 5 gal?

I just setup a herms system and I'm using the 2000 watt boilcoil, 120v (I'm only doing 3 gal batches and it works great). I'm using an auber PID to dial down the power during the boil. It will boil hard if you keep it full boar, but you'll be fine as long as you have enough headspace and don't...

I misspoke, the contactors are specifically for 120v or 220v. The image had a diagram for each

Auber's site says it's compatible with both. That link show 2 diagrams, the bottom diagram shows a 120v setup

This is great information. I did some additional research and found this setup diagram on Auber's web site that I may end up going with for the main and heater power switching: http://www.auberins.com/images/Manual/2352-contactor.pdf Thanks all for the posts here :mug:

This is 120v on a 20 amp breaker. My understanding is the heater will pull 16.7 amps and the pump will be less than 2 amps.

I really appreciate the responses. There will be a PID and SSR controlling the heating element, but I was looking for a secondary method for turning power off when it's not in use, along with switching the pump and entire control panel. Is there any reason why I wouldn't be able to use 20 amp...

I'm working to design a control panel for a 2000 watt heating element with PID and SSR, and a pump. I want to use standard 20 amp toggle switches so I can turn power on and off to the pump, heater, and entire system. I see a lot of threads where a contactor is used with a switch to turn these...