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Really would like this stuff gone...haven't used it in 3 years.

Yes still for sale. Ideally selling it all together so I can avoid several different transactions and getting left with some random pieces of equipment.

To the top! Just stumbled across all this in my basement again. Make a reasonable offer to take it all out of here and it's yours. Please local pickup only.

REVISED: CURRENTLY NOT LOOKING TO PART OUT. (Will separate kegging stuff if someone is interested in all kegging equipment) I no longer have time to brew and everything is taking up space in my basement. Local pickup only. 10 gal tall boy kettle with dip tube, recirc ball valve, temp gauge and...

84 and the ph was 9.1

Thanks for all the info! Should I be concerned with the ph of the mash falling out of ideal range, particularly with darker beers? Edit: I never worried about this while on city water nor did I ever have any issues with dark beers.

I have been brewing for a few years and haven't really paid attention to my water before. I used to have town water and my beer always came out good so I never worried about it. I have recently moved to a new house and have well water. Now I am worried the change in water may change the...

Try bypassing the light and see if it works. Do you have a wiring diagram/schematic?

Is your green light wired in series with the transformer?

+1 for Founders, couldn't have said it better myself! Sierra Nevada labels usually fall off by themselves soaking on oxyclean as well.

^This priming sugar shouldn't add .008 unless you added a lot of sugar or it wasn't mixed well. I think 5oz of sugar should add 0.003 to a 5 gal batch EDIT: Slightly off topic but relevent 5oz=5/16lb=.3125lb table sugar 46ppg = 1.046 .3125 * 46 ppg = 14.375 ppg assume a 5 gallon batch...

If it is taking a while for your wort to drain through your counterflow chiller then maybe the temps are staying high enough for additional isomerization to occur. From BYO: "Alpha acids will continue to isomerize after flameout until the temperature of the wort reaches about 175 °F (79...

Just a thought, are you using any type of chiller? If not, then any late addition hops would be at higher temps longer which could result in them adding more bitterness that you intended.

Good to know about the R134a as my ferm chamber (mini-fridge) is in an unheated garage. Thanks!

Early 90's is 20+ years old, which i would say is a pretty good run for any fridge/freezer, but I do think you want some type of time delay so the compressor doesn't restart too soon after it shuts off.

I am bottling my MO/Mosaic SMaSH this evening which has been dry-hopping for the past 7 days (2 oz of hops). The thought just crossed my mind of taking the bag of used dry-hops and steeping them in the priming water before adding it to the bottling bucket. Would this add any significant hop...

I also agree, you are most likely causing some film boiling on the element, especially as the water temps get closer to boiling. Could you run your element on 120V (1/4 power) and see if you are still having the same issues? At a much lower watt density i would guess you will no longer have an...

As many people say, the airlock is not an indication of fermentation/completed fermentation. Two identical gravity readings a few days apart will let you know fermentation is done. I personally leave everything in primary for 17-21 days, then bottle/keg. 4-6 days is way too soon to bottle.

+1 I really like the idea, but I am thinking put the OG on the left, the FG on the bottom, then the steeper the line is connecting them would represent a higher ABV and or drier beer. you could then put the abv on the right side and the Bitterness ratio on the top. or instead of putting the...

Yep. The first time i didn't have the pump there was some pretty noticeable temp differences at different points in the water as i moved the probe around. I figured for 7 bucks it was pretty cheap assurance that the water temp was uniform and actually at my set point.