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I also have a well and septic system and I've always dumped star san and stuff just down the drain. I doubt it really does anything to destroy much bacteria. Plus I'm also running leftover trub down there after fermentation. I don't use my well water to brew though, I just buy the big 5 gallon...

I've found the Tilt is always a bit off from my final hydrometer reading. I rely on the Tilt to give me a representation of what fermentation is doing, not so much what the actually gravity is. That being said, the numbers aren't usually that far off, but like others have said, measuring...

I'd love to test it out.

For the most part, you can just half everything. The best way would be to put the recipe into a brewing calculator with the original volume, make note of the starting OG and IBUs and then reduce the volume by half and adjust the malt and hops to reach that OG and IBU. The software I use...

It's supposed to carb it faster but hooking it up to 30 psi on the gas post for 2 or 3 days carbs it up quick enough. So to me, it sounds like screwing around with something to speed up a process that already happens pretty quick. That being said, the only time I do actually carb through the...

Totally missed that you wanted to move away from BIAB. I would suggest just using the bag in the cooler. Once the mash it done, pull the bag out and drain the mash tun. But if it rectangular and you don't want to get a bag that fits a rectangular cooler, you may have no other option. I initially...

Did a bunch of BIAB mashes in a 10 gallon cooler until I switched to electric. A no need to rig up a manifold since you're using a bag. I'd suggest putting a ball valve on it to make transfers easier.

I'm brewing this up today. Unfortunately, my home brew shop was out of Denny's yeast so I'm rolling with American Ale II, so I'm hoping it turns out as well as it has the past few years.

That's basically how I found out. I have a QD and hose going into sanitizer on the gas post and when beer started coming out of that post, I knew I filled it a bit too much.

Ball lock here and thanks for the giveaway!

I initially didn't sparge with the foundry but I've found that I get better efficiency if I sparge with 2 gallons. That being said, I don't use the basket and instead have a false bottom and bag so I have very little dead space. Sparging with 2 gallons in the basket might be a pretty thick mash.

For $150, I got a 5 tap keezer which could fit 6 kegs so I drilled another hole. With it, I got 6 corny kegs, a 6 output manifold, a 2 gauge gas manifold, 10 gal CO2 tank with regulator and a bunch of extra parts including about 50 keg gaskets, and sanke hookup. I replaced all the shanks and...

I've always used cane sugar since that's what I had around. Never had issues with it carbing up.

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Well that's good to hear. I bought the 90 degree elbow so I'll just give it a shot and yeah, like you, I'm only using it on the liquid side. I'm just going with the normal tubing for the gas.

So I scored a new keezer and decided for this one, I wanted to use Evabarrier on the liquid side. It can fit 6 kegs but things get a little tight in there so to help make it easier to get kegs in and out, I was thinking about using the right angle connector right off the shank. Has anyone used...

I thought the same thing until I got a pump. After that, I don't know why I never had one before. I do BIAB too but I still recirculate during the mash and no more lifting 6 gallons of wort to gravity transfer it to the fermenter. And I thought I'd never own a plate chiller until I saw one in...

I'm a fan of Brewfather.

Could always use another temperature controller.

I'm using a refractometer. And I'm not too concerned on that because the post-boil reading from the refractometer and hydrometer are very close. And I obviously let the sample cool before checking with the refractometer.