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I also found a burr late last Fall, hearing some horrible noises as I started a transfer to keg. Ended up just letting gravity finish the teansfer. Replaced the impeller later, and I’m considering getting another one as backup. Annoying little things.

Absolutely, haha! I have a four-page printout with my own detailed instructions, and it stays on the workbench for every single brew. “At 30 minutes, put [that thing] in [there],” etc. Couldn’t do a brew day without it.

A concern I didn’t see addressed, was whether or not I should soak in something other than PBW, before first use. It’s a new one, and it seems to have some machining oils or something. Might be my imagination, don’t know. Just a little slick feeling on the wand itself.

Thanks for the replies, everyone! Sounds like I was closer on track than I had thought. Great to read everyone’s methodology, as usual.

Hey there! I’ve seen a bunch of different methods for storing an oxygen wand in between brews, and wanted to ask for collective advice on a method. So, I have a stone that screws onto the end of the wand, NY Brew supply I think. Just got it in. First off, do I need to soak it in something...

Happened to mine after only a handful of brews. Probably four years ago, now. Got the replacement, and haven’t had any problem since.

Hello all, Got a new Mash and Boil (the 2.0), and I can’t honestly remember if I TSP’d and then passivated my old one. I seem to remember hearing from Bill at Williams Brewing, or maybe someone else, that these do not need a TSP clean or passivation, but I might be entirely wrong. Can’t find an...

Thanks so much. This is reassuring!

She usually is 😎

Follow-up question…. Will discoloration of water, or lack of discoloration, tell me if there is anything at all concerning? Pitting, for instance, or rust? Would 150F PBW knock rust loose in that way? As for water freezing inside, that’s an excellent suggestion, but it was well-drained, as well...

Hello all! You probably haven’t seen my name on here much, as I’m more an observer. For many reasons, I have been out of the hobby for a couple years. After lockdown ended, and the toddlers grew into young kids, time has become harder to manage. So anyway, I’ve got an Exchilerator - the SS...

Hello all. I’ve got a few questions about passivation, since this is the first time I’m actually passivating with citric acid. I’ve used a high concentration of StarSan in the past, but I realize that the current research disproves its passivating qualities. So, going with citric acid. 1. It’s...

I’ve heard Barkeeper’s Friend is excellent, but that it might remove electronic etching like gallon markings. Otherwise I would love to just use that.

Just looked at your link above again, and seems like you use a 5lb bag. My mistake,

Sounds like a 6-pound bag from Amazon would take care of 7-gallon fermenter using about 4.5lbs of powder, or 3/4 of the bag. Then the other 1/4 of the bag could mix with 2 gallons of hot water, to dunk fittings and clamps, etc. 8.329lbs x 7gal = 58.3lbs 58.3lbs x .08 = 4.7 lbs of citric acid...

That’s good to hear. I probably wouldn’t think a thing of it years ago when I started. Ever since we had kids, I’m suddenly convinced that EVERYTHING is toxic. “8% by weight.” Is that the recommendation? What I have is a 7-gallon Chronical. Wondering how to calculate the ratio. I think I’ll get...

For years I passivated with the formerly-recommended high concentration of StarSan, I think it was 1oz per gallon of water right? Apparently, that doesn’t do the trick, so they now say. I need to passivate a fermenter now, which I actually TSP-washed about two months ago. Don’t ask me why, but...

I’m not sure, though, which of these would work best for just an older pin lock keg?

This thread was just what I needed! My poppet seals have been failing on one keg. Luckily it’s the keg I use for carbonated water, and not beer. Otherwise, the mess would be a lot stickier. Going to this site now for poppets. Thank you!

Never. Hoping this comes out to be a good brew, though.