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Yeah, that's kind of what I was looking at and I definitely don't want a burn out. I may just forego the elements and go with a cartridge heater that I can dial down to prevent potential issues. Prevents spending my fermenter upgrade money on a new RIMS tube.

No, it has 2 inches on top before it reaches the discharge port. And about an inch before the thermocouple. I run high flow through it with no issues

With the other T fitting on, the length is perfect. The width just doesn't appear to be working for me.

This is what it looks like. I've had success in the past but this just doesn't seem to want to work.

I just received my new stainless 240v element for my RIMS tube but I'm struggling with making it fit. I haven't had this big of an issue in the past but half the time I used an element that wasn't ULWD. My tube is 1" inner diameter at 1.30" outer diameter. Am I struggling too much because I...

The last 2 versions of my brew rig before I took it down in preparation of a move. It's a 110v 2 circuit system, plumbing installed for the use of a single pump.

This sounds well answered but I use a a two circuit 110v system (can't modify military housing for a 220v system). I use a stainless steel ULWD 240v running 1/4 of the wattage (110v) it works very well for me. No scorching and able to easily raise temperature of the entire mash. Just a simple...

I went though that page and I'll have some big differences in my system but I'm all in. If the brewjacket immersion thing is marketable, there must be a way to do things similarly.

I'm not talking a full on barrel sized fermenter but a 5-7 gallon fermenter that only fluctuates a few degrees without a controller. This won't be a device that you slap on and expect it to hold 68 degrees in a 90 degree garage.

After reading "How to Brew" after 8 years of brewing, I changed from a quick drain, sparge and drain again to a slow drain and reducing my pump to match the speed I'm drawing. Definitely bumped up my efficiency but slowed my brew time. Takes about 30-45 minutes draw the right volume out but I'd...

This may be a dumb question but did you over-gage the wires? Maybe they have gotten brittle over the years and somewhere down the line it can't handle the Amps coming through?

For years I have gone back and forth on whether or not to create a peltier fermenter cooler/heater that is a plug and play for all of us DIY brewers. I think I have finally cracked the "reversing polarity" code and if it works, I will push to make pre-made control boards. If anyone is interested...

Well... I checked my thermocouple with ice water and it read 33.2F. I'm thinking my my mash tun may be off. I've always taken it for accurate because it is the same as the ambient temperature when I start brewing.

I am running a insulated keg mash tun with a thermometer on the outside. I also run a RIMS tube to maintain the temperature. Last brew day my RIMS was registering a significant temp difference than my mash tun, I'm talking 142 on the RIMS and 154 on the mash tun. Has anyone experienced this before?

I havent connected the PID at all yet. My SSR is a 40 amp. I don't think the SSR is necessary with the Mechanical Relay but I'm not sure if it will work with the RIMS

Without getting too into the weeds on things, I bought a Inkbird ITC-106VH and burned out the components for the SSR. I bought a replacement and got ended up with a ITC-106RH. The controller is meant for my RIMS tube. Can someone please let me know how the Output Relay is different than the...

20% honey is never a bad thing but I don't think you will get the honey flavor from that. Grain would be better to rely on for the flavor. That honey will definitely contribute to the ABV. Plan to use nutrients for fermentation and expect a longer ferment time (assuming you didn't already know...

To be quite honest, I wasn't impressed with the Brew Brothers. I was a member for the first year I lived in the springs and I felt like the term "brothers" only applied to the members that have been around for a while. After attending several meetings and only talking to other new members I...

Pretty sure there's a Meadery in Oceanside

Im running a full 120V system and I had issues in my RIMS when running HWD 120V elements. Scorching and overheating were the main problems. When I run a 240V ULWD element on 120V usually puts me at about 1375W I can run it steady for several minutes at a time, I manually control it so I don't...