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    Could My SSR Be Bad?

    YES! I forgot to mention that I pulled the 24v psu when I got the new PID. Sorry about the confusion. It's a much more simple panel now.
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    Could My SSR Be Bad?

    OK, I ordered the one from Auber. There is a small realization here though. If this is the "good" SSR, and the bad one is $5 less, who the hell would pay for the **** one? If I knew that high quality stuff could be had for that price, I would have gone that way first. But honestly, I'm an amazon...
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    Could My SSR Be Bad?

    With the light on, I am reading 1.44v. With the light off I'm still reading 1.4v. Any recommendations on a higher quality SSR?
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    Could My SSR Be Bad?

    Previous Wiring Diagram. Note the changes in my OP on current thread.
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    Could My SSR Be Bad?

    Hello all, I recently posted a different thread that conviced me to buy a new PID. I picked a MyPIN TD4. Previous Thread My current issue is that I am trying to tune the PID. After I hit the setpoint, the temperature just keeps rising. I am using a Fotek 40A SSR. Is there some...
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    Crazy boiling after reaching setpoint

    The PID has no jumpers, you must be looking at the wrong manual. The LED does cycle when in duty cycle mode. I haven't had time to play with it recently to measure the voltage across the SSR during duty cycle mode. But the point might be moot because I bought a TD4.
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    Crazy boiling after reaching setpoint

    Are there any features that the TD4 doesn't have that I may want in the future? Or is that kind of what everyone uses? EDIT: with my question in mind, my "cheap" project is over budget and off schedule, so I just want it to work.
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    Crazy boiling after reaching setpoint

    Fair enough. I didn't have time to run any tests tonight, but here are all the components SSR: URBest TC/PID: Love Controls 16A3030 PSU: see photo Element: Camco 5500w ULWD
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    Crazy boiling after reaching setpoint

    There is a headsink on it, it came installed that way, so I don't know if it has any TIM on it. The ssr does have an led and when the temperature controller output is off, the led is off, so it should be off, but instead it's "off".
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    Crazy boiling after reaching setpoint

    I'll check that out. Thanks for the clarification.
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    Crazy boiling after reaching setpoint

    It's a Love Controls 16A, I don't remember the specific model number.
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    Crazy boiling after reaching setpoint

    That's not what I have done. I'm not sure that we are on the same page, see attached schematic. I don't follow what you are suggesting, can you reference a drawing or mark up my attached? He is the schematic, I will double check it when I get home. I'm drawing it from memory.
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    Crazy boiling after reaching setpoint

    I'll draw up a schematic when I get to work tomorrow. Perhaps my brother's suggestion makes no sense to you because you have made your own e kettles before and brewed with them more than once. Coming from some one who programs plcs and automation equipment, it seemed a perfectly cromulent...
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    Crazy boiling after reaching setpoint

    Thanks for the tip. I just did a boil test with just water, about 6.5 gallons. I switched to manual mode and I brought the water up to about 200F at 100%. Then I dropped it to 60% and the boil raged. Then just out of curiosity, I dropped the percentage down to 1%, and the boil raged on. Here's...
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    Crazy boiling after reaching setpoint

    I've just recently made the switch to both all grain and electric brewing. My first all grain batch was done in my new electric keggle. I made my own control panel as cheaply as possible. My brother had a love 16A temperature controller laying around so I built everything around that. I added a...
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    Graff (Malty, slightly hopped cider)

    Any thoughts on not using any specialty grains? I'm trying to clean out the freezer of leftover ingredients and I don't have any grains. I'm also going to be using a lager yeast.
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