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Yeah that's it haha, it sucks. I'd be hesitant since we rent the apartment, but I haven't checked. I figure if I fill the sink, then start the pump and run the sink, it basically replicates the flow coming directly from the sink. I can also add ice to the side of the sink where the water is...

It's basically a shower head haha. I just meant the style. It's like this: And there is a place for an attachment when you remove the head, but removing the head is very annoying, and once you do, the hose and the end retract up into the top curved portion of the faucet and you can't...

I have a shower head sink at my apartment and it's a pain to remove the shower head. On top of that, for some reason when I did get it off, the hose with the attachment retracts into the pipe, which makes it nearly impossible to pull it out.

Do you think the 200 GPH will work, or should I go return it before trying it and get that one?

So I took your advice and went to Harbor Freight, however, I purchased a 200 GPH pump since I didn't see this post. I have yet to try it since I don't have the tubing, but I'm assuming this isn't going to work. Once I get the tube, I'll give it a shot. I just need an alternative way to pump...

Hi, I just recently purchased a Robobrew to brew in my small apartment. Instead of taking the shower nozzle off of my kitchen sink each time and adapting the chiller, I plan on filling my sink and pumping cold water through the chiller using an aquarium pump. My question pertains to the pump...

So my grain bill is 2.15 lbs. and my pre-boil volume is going to be 1.75 gallons... 2.15/1.75=1.23 so it should be attainable without sparging? I actually plan on sparging, but not necessarily the optimal amount according to Beersmith. I think my plan is to have about 1.5 gallons of strike...

Everything is scaled fine if you just divide everything by 5? I also don't plan on sparging initially so my water profile should be a bit easier. Does 70% efficiency or so with no sparge sound doable?

Jumping over to all grain from extract with BIAB. After making a few 1 gallon batches this summer, I'll then decide if I want to invest in bigger all grain equipment. I understand the BIAB process, but am stuck making a recipe. I have Beersmith and can use that, but am having trouble figuring...

Motueka and Mosaic have worked well for me in an IPA before

Right. I may just stick to a 30 minute boil and save the other for another time

Which do you think would produce better results? I've liked the 30 minute boils that I've done before and I'm assuming boiling for 30 minutes before adding hops will create a more malty flavor in the end product

I've done 30 minute boils before. I meant I was't sure about the types of hops I'll be using. My question I guess was really is there any difference in a 60 minute boil where I don't start adding hops until 30 minutes or just a 30 minute boil?

Just another suggestion since you're new and might not have ideal equipment. When I first started brewing, I used a meat thermometer to measure my water temp so I never knew the exact temperature. General rule is that it's fine to steep at a temperature under what's recommended, but once you...

I've switched to exclusively using distilled water recently with good results. I feel like it has made my beers smoother and brought out the hops a little bit more. Plus, 5 gallons of distilled water is only about $5 so it's really not much of an investment. If you've never used it, I...

Looking to brew a session IPA this weekend and I'm just wondering if there is any difference between a hop burst and a short boil (30 minute boil or so)? To me it seems like the same thing? If not, what's the difference, and what would you guys recommend for a session IPA of the two methods...

Had a gift certificate to my LHBS and figured I'd try a kind of throw together beer. Going for a very piney hop profile. Just wanted any input or suggestions for a better outcome before I try it out. Thanks 7 lbs Pilsen LME 8 oz White Wheat 4 oz Flaked Wheat 30 minute boil: 1 oz Chinook @30...

What is your boil size? The smaller, the more diluted your hops will be, which might be why it is coming in at 20 IBUs.

Since you're making a less complex beer, the boil size won't have as big of an impact I don't think. I'd do a 9 gallon boil. Before the boil is over, I'd fill each carboy with 5 gallons of water and mark the side with a sharpie. Leave in/fill back up 2 gallons of water in each carboy and then...

I've had this happen before too. I was always under the impression that it was the hops since I dry hopped with pellets, but since you had a bag, it must not be. Whatever it is, I think it looks cool and doesn't seem to affect the beer at all.