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Any update on getting grain? I've also just picked up a cereal killer, and I'm looking around town and online for some decent bulk prices. Last time I was at Gentile's I got quoted something in $50-ish dollar range for their 2-row, and somewhere around $70-ish for a sack of their Marris Otter...

Unless you plan on distilling the stuff you shouldn't need to worry about methanol. Most of what you're describing should age out. I'd say to just give it some time and see how it goes.

By nasty do you mean like sulfur? That can be normal for some yeast, but will usually blow off if you use an air lock.

Heya, everybody. It's been a long time since I've posted here, or activity brewed. Got hitched, got a house and a kid, and I'm finally committing to getting back to brewing after several false starts. I'm planning on easing back into things by starting with a dry hopped cider, and going...

I 'll second joker. Just don't worry about it. I forget to throw it in every other batch, and most batches you can hardly tell the difference.

Cool. I honestly didn't know he was working on new stuff. I'll have to check it out.

It's not that the bag method isn't an option, but I don't think you'll ever be able to achieve the same efficiency as you would with a proper mash/later tun (such as the cooler with false bottom.)

Best of luck. My first brew turned out well enough, and it was just extract with some hops thrown in. As long as you follow good cleaning / sanitation practices, and follow the general steps, it's hard to go wrong.

Welcome aboard! If you bottles are taking a while to carbonate, you may want to check what temerature they are aging at. It's generally recommended to keep the bottles at a moderate room temperature - around 70F, or 21C - until they've reached the carbonation level you're looking for. Colder...

Welcome aboard!

Well, as long as you're careful, it shouldn't hurt the beer. Moving it around will kick some yeast up, but that won't be a problem if you give it time to settle before bottoling or use a secondary. I wouldn't worry about oxydizing it to much, as there's probably not much other then CO2 in...

I'm pro DME. Easier to measure, stores well, better color control.

Grim, I believe so. As I understand it, the idea is to match the flow rates so that you have the same amount of water going in as coming out so that the water covers the grain bed. I batch sparge though, so if a fly sparger could chime in, please do. ajf pointed out what I first noticed...

Just to echo what david was pointing out: incandescents are okay for the most part.

Ditto that. Come for the brew, stay for the softcore porn :mug:

Woo, happy (belated) B-Day!

I have one aluminum and one stainless. I voted aluminum for the heck of it.

Tap water. It's pretty drinkable straight from the tap, and it gets boiled anyways, so no worries.

If you were using DME, do you know what brand it was?

Just out of curiosity, what temperature are your bottles sitting at?