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Nothing outside of the recommended use. I had a wing capper when I first started and it worked fine. Then gave it to a friend when I moved to keg. Maybe I’ve just had bad luck but the handles always go a bit floppy after a couple batches. I’ve gone table top now. Less moving parts.

And those shoes would last five lifetimes.

someone on a Facebook group unrelated to home brewing posted it so I thought I’d help with some digging. If it’s for sale I might consider. I’m so tired of those handheld wing cappers. They only last about one batch. What I need is some solid cast iron.

Has anyone seen this style of capper? Any ideas on who makes it, how old it is, value etc? TIA.

Longer lines eh? I never would have thought that was the problem. My cooling system on my fridge is broken. The good news is a woodstove is the only heat source so my room temperature is pretty chilly. Thanks for the tip. I'll get longer lines tomorrow!

Keg lines are 3-4 feet. Temp is 50 ish. And currently I'm serving at 8 psi

I have been having trouble with my keg system. My beer when I pour it has way too much head. I carbonate at whatever level I am supposed to depending on style. But no matter what pressure I dispense at, the glass is always 3/4 foam. Even if I tilt the glass and all that. This problem even...

The first few times I tried all grain I was mashing at 158. Don't ask me where I got that number but now I realize that was probably too high. But single infusion, fly sparging. Early on I omitted the mash out before I was aware that it actually helped loosen sugars from the grain allowing them...

The milling is another thing I'm experimenting on. I went as tight as i could and then stuck the runoff. I've heard .37 is a good width.

Based off research that I've done, this topic definitely sounded a lot more complicated. But based off what I've been told on here it's not. Previous brews I've done in the past came out with really low OG's so I figured my mash procedure was where I was going wrong.

Thanks for the info. Personally I do like the least amount of times that I have to open my MT and possibly increase the margin of error with additiona infusion temps and stuff.

So what about the 148 for 20 and 158 for 40? Is that enough time to convert the sugars at the lower temperature? Or should I do 30/30, 40/30 etc.?

I'm getting real close to perfecting my all grain procedure; however, there's one thing I can't quite nail down. So I see a lot about mashing at different temperatures will yield different amount of ferment able sugars. My next goal is an espresso oatmeal milk stout using 11 pounds 2 row and...

I mean monks in the 17th century didn't use dme, thanks for all the help. Wish me luck on my next batch!

Yeah but that seems like cheating to me, I'm a purist and if I'm going to do it I'm going to do it right.

Because the false bottom isn't the domed style that you use in a cooler, it's a flat circle with three legs that is about 2 inches above the bottom. When I'd take the lid off to check on it there was some grain that wasn't saturated. So now I'm going to have to do some calculations to correct...

Ok thanks. I have the false bottom for the megapot and my theory on that is because the false bottom is a good inch or two off the the bottom, it raised the top of the grain mass just enough that not all of it was fully submerged under water. and another time for some reason beersmith told me...

I have been extract brewing for about two years and have had great success, so I decided to graduate to all grain. My first batch, a dark lager, turned out great. I am using beersmith and the OG was a few degrees below the predicted OG. Being my first batch I wasn't upset. However my second and...