Search results

According to Gemini AI: How It Works A melanoidin mash is a type of step mash that extends the time the wort spends in the protein rest range, typically around 50–55°C (122–131°F). While this temperature isn't high enough for caramelization or intense Maillard reactions, it is the perfect...

Is anyone familiar with a "Melanoidin Mash"? It's the same as a Protein Rest, but much longer (about 30 minutes). Apparently this prepares the mash so that more melanoidins are created during the later boil, simulating the taste of a decocted beer.

I think Paulaner uses the traditional two-mash decoction procedure shown in Figure 7.5 below (from Handbook of Mashing, Ziegler, et. al., 2009).

How did it turn out?

Thank you. Then it would appear that they likely still do a double decoction. I could try to contact him to find out what temperatures he does a decoction at. Are there any other important parts of the process that would also be worth trying to contact him about? I don't want to ask too many...

Thank you - the step mash sounds reasonable and is almost identical to the step mashes I generally use for Munich Helles. Out of curiosity and to determine how recent the process is, did you communicate wih the Brewmaster in 2023? Is the head Brewmaster still Martin Zuber? Or is it now Christian...

Thank you, @tderanleau . Munich II can range from about 8-12 Lovibond. If it's at the lower end, my calculations show that 5 SRM CAN just be achieved. But not if it's at the higher end. Another question. After an extensive search, I have found no online source anywhere that says Paulaner...

@tderanleau, are you sure that the recipe calls for 20% Munich Type 2 malt? Should it perhaps be Type 1 or even Vienna malt? Otherwise, I'm not sure how you can get a SRM to be as low as 5.0.

You're right. I forgot to include the OG numbers. Thanks for that. With the correction, the FG comes out to 1.0123, exactly the same as the Hydrometer reading (1.012)!

The correction is made on the BRIX reading, and accounts for the alcohol and other distortions in the reading. I forgot to include the OG readings, so that would account for the difference (see next post).

I just checked the FG of my current beer, at room temperature, and after degassing it. The results: Tilt: 1.006 (not fully calibrated and read before degassing). Hydrometer: 1.012 Older Refractometer: 1.025 (BRIX 6.6 with corrections) Newer Refractometer: 1.026 (BRIX 6.8 with corrections) The...

The Brewer's Friend Calculator seems to use an old conversion formula that is not as correct as Sean Terrill's formula. For example, for a Brix of 16.7, Brewer's Friend calculates the S.G. as 1.069. Sean Terrill's formula calculates it as 1.066.

In the Brewer's Friend calculator, shouldn't the wort correction factor be 1.04 rather than 1.0?

True, but sometimes it's convenient to check the SG during fermentation, for example when starting the Diacetyl rest. At that time, the taste is not as important, and a small sample would be preferable.

I was wondering if anyone adjusts their Final Gravity readings when using a refractometer? There is a significant difference between the measured reading and the actual reading of the beer gravity when using a hydrometer.

Well, it's been a year and a half. Unfortunately, the oak cubes have taken over the flavour, so I don't detect any sour at all. I should not have added them during the secondary.

Yes, that was what I was describing. I've rested the basket and bag on those rests numerous times, with no sign of wear on the bag. The mesh is quite tough - not cloth, and almost impossible to tear. Since it's not cloth, it also dries quite rapidly.

The Brew Bag is very sturdy with handles, But I raise the basket and the bag at the same time. I lift the basket itself with the bar, but use my other hand to hold the bag in place with one of the the handles of the bag. The bag is very light since almost all of the grain is inside the basket...

Sparging gently allows the sparge water to penetrate as much grain as possible, in order to absorb the rest of the sugars in the grain bed. If you sparge too quickly, it may form channels in the grain to let the sparge water through, thereby missing much of the grain.

I consistently use a grain bag outisde of the grain basket (pipe). The pipe fits in it exactly. I feel that having the bag outside, instead of inside the pipe, allows the water to circulate more freely. With this set-up, I have no trub when I bring it to the fermenter. I also have no clogging...