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just boil the hops separately, using the same timing as you would with your fermentables? Boiling hops: 60 minutes (fermentables are boiling concurently) Flavor hops: 15 minutes ???:confused: Do you strain the hops prior to addition to the fermentables?

If you use one of the keggles, and do a full boil, how to you transfer the wort to your carboy? I can say that there is no way I could lift that monster. I have a hard enough time with a 3 gallon boil getting it into the carboy. Do you siphon?:drunk:

Dry yeast = no starter Liquid Yeast = starter Wyeast Smack Pack = no starter :drunk:

you need to work on your stamina.:ban:

I got in way over my head about a year ago. Beer bottles everywhere, multiple carboys in the dining room.... I really don't enjoy bottling, but I'll get over it.... I love beer, especially hoppier tastes!!!:mug:

I had about 55-60 gallons under my belt and then took a hiatus from brewing. I just brewed a steam and it turned out really good. Funny thing is, I kind of didn't have my equipment totally dialed in! I couldn't find the screen to my funnel, so I poured the wort through some sanitized...

I seriously doubt that my priming sugar wasn't mixed properly. I suppose, but doubt. The beer is "young" for a barleywine, from what I have heard. So, the additional conditioning time in the bottle will not make a difference, just how long I chill it before I pop?

in the refrig about 1 hour before decanting.

was 5 oz, just as called for. I did not use a secondary. I bottled it after the final gravity was established. Will it settle down?

It's been about 3 weeks since I bottled. The OG and FG were right on target. I know you guys say to wait awhile for Barleywine, but I just wanted to sample for fun.:fro: I just opened a bottle....the entire contents of the bottle exploded out of the bottle all over everything, including...

Do you find yourself having settled on a couple or a few beers that you know you brew well and always like the outcome? Or, do you continually experiment with new beers?

secondary? If the fermentation is done, why not just go straight to the bottle? I understand why the brew should sit in the bottle to condition for a long time, I'm just not sure what additional advantage to a long secondary?

in fact, I had a 6 pack of one a couple of months ago, that led me to do a cream ale with orange peel. I used the orange peel from the brew store and added it to the last 5-10 minutes of the boil. Unfortunately, the orange essence is so light it is almost negligible. I'd try one of the...

and they all are different color depending on the type of LME, steeping grains, etc...:confused:

SWSBO knitted this for me for Valentine's Day...

Started at 1.088. Brewed 1/26/08, today is 2/16/08, exactly three weeks. 12 lbs of LME White Labs 099 - Super High Gravity Yeast with Starter Hops and all the other normal stuff Does this sound about right?

Right now, I'm sort of hoarding my beer. I've only been at it since Dec 1 (proudly 50 gallons in, 30 bottled). Now, I'm actually at a weird intersection where I'm running out of bottles to bottle the 20 gallons I need to bottle within the next couple of weeks. So, at Super Bowl, I offered...

I too, can find the inner pouch. Last time, I found it, pinched it a couple time, felt around again, thought that I had broken it, then set the package down on the counter and banged on it with my fist a few times all over the pack. When I pitched the yeast, the activator pack still wasn't...

don't always swell that much. I think the ambient air temp can cause the smack packs to appear to be inflating, but this is just a theory. All I know is I have had smack packs that inflated like a balloon, others that inflated very little after the activator was punctured, and ones that I...

nOOb alert. The plastic bottling buckets are a weak link in my process. The spigot seems to inevitably leak (even if just a bit). Also, the spigot housing where the spigot "turner" resides has a little pin hole in it that sprays out beer unless you position the "turner" just right. Am I...