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I wish you all the luck in the world! Godspeed in finding a solution that's Buoyant!

The main body of the preform is 28.64 mm, but then it goes out a bit where the lid screws on this OD is 32.9 mm. The inside diameter is 20.69mm. Here is what the preform looks like:

The electronics part is the easy part, getting it to be buoyant is the hard part. I've been working on a smaller sized unit that fits in a 2l preform or the containers that white labs used to sell yeast in and I am about to give up on the dream of a smaller ispindel.

yeah, and the Gyro (MPU-6050's) are hit and miss too, usually 50-60% bad. That's why I've gone to the SMT ispindel boards. I just need to worry about the d1 and TP4056, which I'm currently in the process of building both and having made myself.

I only buy the 3.0.0 boards now and I'm going to start building my own going forward or making boards that use the esp-12s, the amount that I have also got that have issues is shocking.

I'm having an issue when trying to connect the LCD screen, relays, and wifi I get a continuous reboot loop until I unplug the LCD screen or turn off WIFI, and then everything works normally. BPL also works normally if I have D0 which is pointed at a relay set up as inverted but then the fridge...

BrandonBrewingco - GPIO 19 and 26 are just extra 12v pinouts which you could solder in a 2 pin male header and then use a 2 pin female header out to whatever you want. I used it for running those cheap 12v pumps so I didn't have to cut off the female header that came standard on those pumps.

Are you talking about the TP4056?

This actually makes it much easier then the board posted above. https://github.com/cherryphilip74/iSpindel-PCB

Works fine if you use https://github.com/wiringpi/wiringpi.git

Just imagine the size of the case you would need if you wanted to go vertical. I think the addition of a 5v port for a case fan is the better option.

Being critical when dealing with electricity is a good thing and awesome catch on the 5V / 3.3V!! Oh my god Yes trying to route the traces for the logical shifter was "fun"!! Here's an update after the changes and yes I will be sharing the gerbers for this project once it's tested.

yeah, that's a great idea! The rpi4 seems to be a mess right now first it was the usb-c connector snafu and now issues with over heating, I'm wondering what the next issue is going to be.

The reason the board is 12v's was to drive ssr's and pumps. Also, because most people bought crappy cheap ones from China, which in most tests I found wouldn't turn on with 5v's. If you have good SSR's, you don't have to worry about that. Also I highly doubt you fried pi's with the Terragady...

@LBussy - How does this look? Moved some things around and added your idea for the Logic level converter.

No, but they could be added but would also require more parts / room. As you would need two additional resistors, two PC817's and two led's.

@LBussy This was my idea for the AIO board. Pretty much got it built just going over some design ideas and I'll probably change it from 12v to 5v or leave it and remove the buck 3a.

I created a new pcb design that should work for both Brewmaniac and BrewPiLess. I'll hopefully get it tested tonight. I went with 12v input but I'm thinking I'll remove this as I can run this easier with just 5v.

I'll have to give it a go and see which one I like best. Thanks!

I wouldn't use CraftbeerPi for fermentation. Check out BrewPiLess or BrewPi on the forum and use the rpi for fermentrack.