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The circuit did not trip. And removing the e-stop circuit did not work either.

You are correct, I have the wrong type of contacts in the estop. Aside from ordering different contacts, do you know how I could solve this problem?

The four wires coming off the other side of the PID go to SSR + SSR - Neutral Bus Other side of PID power button Thank you for looking at this for me. It is frustrating that this isn't working.

I will try to get the picture. I should have noted, I do not have a pump installed, so the pump power button and outlet have been removed.

I have wired my system according to the PJ diagram seen below. However, when I energize the system, my PID does not light up. I have tried pressing both buttons and flipping the switch, but none of it works. Also, my two resistors are getting extremely hot when I plug the panel in.

I am an engineer, and I have access to some materials which made this project cheaper than expected.

I used this type of outlet because I am a college student and this type was much MUCH cheaper than the flanged outlets sold by sites like ebrew supply and the electric brewery.

I have followed an incredible diagram created by PJ (Thank you kind sir) and I would like to see what you guys think about it. I have attached the diagram. I did not wire LEDs or the pump. Aesthetics aside, does the panel look safe? It will be plugged into a 30amp gfci double pole...

I currently use a 7 gallon electric turkey fryer to 5 gallon batches. I use the fryer as my HLT and my boil kettle. It works well, but I'm ready for an upgrade. I want to have an electric system but I want to stay as cheap as possible. I already have a keg (purchased, NOT stolen) to convert...