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You should tie your DC- from different sources (12VDC, 5VDC, 24VDC) together. Also, you can ground the DC- of each source, this is optional.

Higher voltage is almost always better. Lower amp draws equal smaller diameter wire equals less money. Also, @BrunDog offers a nice RIMS element on his site!

Nice, this is my plan for when I add valves to the mix

Awesome! I'd look at the max current of your devices and the inrush current, size accordingly. 120% is a good rule of thumb. Start a build thread if you haven't already! I love looking at other peoples builds.

FYI if you are new to this thread, I recently found a great YouTube channel on the basics of panel building, signals, wiring, etc. Great resource for someone with little to no experience (or even someone like me that works in the controls industry) Check out Tim Wilborne

Thank you for this! I have been dying to see inside of your nano setup for awhile! I honestly will need a larger panel to keep things isolated and provide the protection I want to include. I am using the remains of my old project that had 2 panels so the AC and DC components were isolated in 2...

Got mine for free. I prefer using something that can keep up with me, and I usually don't have machines for a single purpose. I will likely install BeerSmith and a server of some sort on this machine. My experience with dinosaur PCs is that they die, and the parts hard to find. And this comes...

But why? Build a $2500 setup, install $200 software on a $5 pc? Drop $150 and get a compute stick. $500 and get a NUC.

How are you controlling your heating elements? There are no SSRs in line with the output power. You can just use a single 5V power supply for your Volt and Amp meters. I see your contactors are daisy chained. This may work if you are running a 30A setup. A better practice would be direct runs...

1. Old panel. The Spa panel is cheaper at $80-90. If I didn't have so many dual pole breakers in my breaker box I would just replace the whole thing. 2. No need for 50A at the moment, but I wanted the ability to go bigger in the future, though I guess I could wire this for back to back right...

Are you talking about something like the Rosemount or Micromotion stuff that DieBeerery has? If its industrial you likely need a sensor AND transmitter. Just make sure to read the technical documentation and make sure the two are compatible!

Assuming I have a quality supply, I can just use 5V into the 5V pin and I also have the option to put 7-12V into the Vin. Gotcha! Thanks for the breakdown man! Man I'm sorry, its AutoCAD Electrical 2018. $2k/year license...

This should be the same as your chiller: Full flow. The only caveats would be your compaction and or re-circulation method (how the water is impacting the surface of your MT). Kal references this in TEB site. I would assume this requires adequate recirculation and turbulence in the HLT to...

Hopefully this is accurate. From what I have been reading I can pass 5V to the board via the 5V pin on the MEGA.

Currently I am using USB, which I assume provides 5V to the MEGA. So I should not have to wire 5V to Vin? Here is my power supply diagram. I did a bit of reading, and it seems the Arduino can autoswitch from the jack to the 5V connection provided that the jack voltage is over 7.5V. It also said...

I am stalled out since my last drill battery died. I lack a few holes in the panel and some threaded taps for a couple pieces of wireway. I also have to cut for L6-30, L5-15, XLR, USB, ETHERNET, and a few general use holes for IO Then we are on to wiring, painting, and assembly.

If you are an electrician, I would honestly go the DIY route. You have the option of doing something like KAL's The Electric Brewery or you could do something like BruControl and automate some or all. I agree with @RoguePixels , make a checklist and see where you end up!

I just finalized my list. $60 in breakers (my panel is full and it's old, putting in 2 tandems to make room for the 50A), $90 50A GFCI spa panel, $70 6/3 wire, and $25 for outlet. So about $250 to do it myself. Within 5 feet of the panel... The cost covers 25' of wire.

So USB or Ethernet? Is there a way to switch from one to the other? I planned on doing USB and keeping my Intel NUC PC close to the panel