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The pot is a possibility. https://beerandbrewing.com/off-flavor-of-the-week-metallic/

At these levels, I don't think a stall is a big concern. That said, more sugar won't do much for flavor. Personally, I'd leave it as is, but if you want to goose the gravity, consider adding more malt, dissolved in as little water as possible.

This is certainly an option. Partial boil does change efficiency and hop utilization, but a knowledgable all-grain brewer can account for that easily enough. On my rig, I have to do exactly this on high-gravity beers due to limited kettle space. On the other hand, since the OP seems new to all...

The advantage of the 3 gallon kit is that most extract brewers can use their normal kettle and brew on their stovetop. (Whereas a 5 gallon a BIAB kit needs a much larger kettle than a 5 gallon extract kit due to the volume of grains.) In other words, 3 gallon batches mean no need for new...

Nothing wrong with Legion. It's mighty tasty too.

I'm not a big fan of Deep Ellum Blonde. But anything Peticolas is worth a try- especially the Hammer. Next time you get down to Texas, get you some Lakewood Temptress though. Trust me on this.

I want to get my hands on some for an Old Ale

If you go north from Dallas, you won't get anywhere near Colorado.

Euless is more Ft. Worth than Dallas. The area is huge can be tough to navigate. You need to check out the DFW Beer Scene map on this web page to find places handy to your local. http://www.dallasbrewscene.com/#!map/cjg9

As you think I'm incapable of understanding, I'm going to bow out of this thread.

That High Gravity e-biab system is #1 on my wish list.

Fuller's 1845 Lakewood The Temptress Imperial Milk Stout Chimay Blue Avery Maharaja Franziskaner Weissbier

I no-chill and will often go 18-24 hours before pitching, but I'm very careful to make certain the wort is sealed away from interlopers during that time. If you were careful too, your beer will be just fine.

I never said it wasn't beneficial. It just isn't necessary- and, yes, history backs my statement up. And, again, I'm not saying you shouldn't use nutrient. But "necessary" implies that you MUST. You can argue that nutrient is good. You can argue it is beneficial. You can even argue, if...

It's a smart thing to do, but I didn't bother on any set-up I've ever owned. I just jump in and see what happens.

I have a burner, a pot, and a bag. Cheap and easy. Specifically, Northern Brewer's Tall Boy kettle, a Wilser Bag, and an induction burner. If you want to invest big bucks up front, get a chest freezer and temperature controller set up a fermentation chamber. You are better off with happy...

Thousands of years of people brewing beer without even know how yeast worked, let alone providing extra nutrients for them, agrees with me. Look, I never said you shouldn't use added yeast nutrients. I simply said it isn't necessary. Make your beer your way- just don't act like your way...

Nope. Not at all. As all the other replies, we can debate when and if added nutrients are helpful, but they are not necessary.

Looks like a face hugger. Call Ripley.

Make sure the seems are on the outside when you put the grains in. Then, they don't get stuck in the stitching.