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240 Volt 5500 Watt Immersion Heater with 1 Inch NPT Flange

Perfect size for up to 6 gallon batches. Comes with 11 gallon stainless kettle, lid, brew-in-a-bag basket, element, element adapter, 1/2" stainless bulkhead with pick up tube. Custom gallon markers are etched on inside wall of kettle and basket holes were increased to maximize wort flow. When...

Well, it works and I was able to successfully able to brew Kolsch but a couple glitches I need to work out. One of those is not being able to get the PID to go into manual mode. Brewing on automatic mode at 100% power is not effective for maintaining a controlled boil. Also, hind sight 20/20...

I just took the the JPG and imported it into MS Publisher and used the drawing tool. Saved it as a JPG as well not a publisher file or PDF Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

This is just my documentation of the wiring changes I had to make to address the two issues, the timer power being always on and the modification to use the 240v coil contactor (thanks to augiedoggy, bsperr and doug293cz). This is NOT the original schematic I started with, just the end result...

Success. Tested with 5 gals of water at 58 degrees. 05 mins - 94 (incr of 36 degrees) 10 mins - 137 (incr of 43 degrees) 15 mins - 185 (incr of 38 degrees) That's a projected boil time of less than 20 mins. Happy with results. Thanks to all who provided input and questions. Sent from my...

One final addition to the box. Since this is a table top design, I mounted the non-skid feet on what will be the bottom to keep it from slipping while in use on the metal table. Water test tonight! Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

I just changed the wiring so both the timer and the pid turn on with the center SW1 blue switch. Didn't change anything on the buzzers or there switches and they work independant and properly.

That worked! Thanks. So the rewire for using a 240v coil contractor with this schematic is as follows: - Disconnect the neutral wire (yellow) from coil terminal - Move the neutral wire on the element switch from terminal X1 to terminal 13. - Add a neutral jumper from terminal 14 to terminal...

Augiedoggy, the contactor rewiring worked for the element, however, the switch light was always on. So I disconnected the neutral wire going into X1 on the element switch and then it didn't light at all. A little perplexed as to how to wire that switch so it will come on when the element is on...

Since I am still pre successful water test, I haven't fitted the return tube yet. I was going add a weldless on the lid with a trip-clamp fitting and a length of tube to submerse in the basket but not sure I want a lid on mash. I like boil off so I am looking for ideas to just recirculate to...

Augiedoggy, the contactor rewiring worked for the element, however, the switch light was always on. So I disconnected the neutral wire going into X1 on the element switch and then it didn't light at all. A little perplexed as to how to wire that switch so it will come on when the element is on...

The power to both buzzer switches comes from each unit individually. The buzzers both do connect to a neutral line but the power that makes them sound and light comes from the ALM terminals on each the timer and the PID. At least that is what I take from it. The buzzers only operate if those...

Bsperr, you were right! The LED SW1 switches got mixed up and are specific to each color. My element switch looked purple and was suppose to be red. Thanks to your post, I switched them and they are the right color now. Thanks Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

The timer is always on which I didn't realize till I powered everything up. I might add another SW1 to switch it off/on or use the existing PID switch to power both. The PID buzzer is only functional when the PID is powered on Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

Thats interesting and could be what is happening. Can you tell the bulb color by popping them off and taking a look in the button or switch? Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

I posted an edited schematic that I believe shows this wiring option but Augiedoggy can confirm if it accurately show what he describes

Would that change look like this?

Ok, I wrote the last before seeing your full explanation. So, the neutral line goes to and stops at X1 on the switch but does not go to the coil. A L2 wire goes directly to the previous neutral coil connection?

So let me see if I understand. If I remove the neutral lines going to X1 on the element switch and the coil (shown in yellow), I can run an Line 2 (red) wire directly from the terminal block to X1 on my element switch and then to what was the neutral connection? Sent from my iPhone using...