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Well...from what I've seen all of Sam Adams Porters use their base malt, 60L Crystal, Munich, and Carafa...no other roasted malt. Try one of their porters and if you like then it'll probably work out for you.

I just add the hops directly to the fermentor. One thing you can do to reduce sediment and dry hop material is gently pour your brew through a mesh bag and into a bottling bucket or pot (like a paint straining bag you would get from Lowe's or Home Depot). Just make sure it is sanitized. The...

Cheers to that! I went back to a 10 gallon batch for an event I was doing and it was a huge pain! I even ended up pulling a back muscle!

Keep a close hand on your stove top dial. When mine starts to foam I'll cut it back to about half or lower until the foam subsides, then gently increase back to a rolling boil, which is at about 60% of the dial. Also, spraying water on it with squirt bottle will knock back the foam too.

Hey folks. In case you need a christmas gift for anyone we are running a Black Friday special on our Small Batch Beer Making Kits. 20% off for Friday only. Also, everyone keep up the great content here...and I love all the pictures!

+1 for Nottingham for a Brown

Just brewed 2 simultaneous small batches last night, both hoppy brown ales. One with all Columbus in the boil and one with all Centennial. Gonna dry hope them both with some Amarillo...can't wait to see the flavor profile difference!

Hey menerdari, let me know if you have any questions and we can get you hooked up brewing some tasty small batches! Cheers!

Thanks very much UnderThePorchBrewing...you rock my man!

I scale all my recipes and brewing to be exactly 1/4 of a 5 gallon batch which I always plan for 6 gallons post boil. This means my planned batch size post boil is 1.5 gallons. Also, I formulate my hops in 7 gram increments, which is 1/4 of an ounce. This makes scaling of everything volume...

Here is a tip of the day for the small batch brewers that are using DME or LME for your base. While your specialty grains are steeping in a small pot, mix your DME/LME with water to get the volume you are looking for and start to bring that to a boil in your brew pot. Once you a hit a boil...

I don't have the book but would be more than happy to help you scale down any recipe you may have. Just contact me through this forum, FB, or our website and we'll help you in any way we can. Cheers!

+1 dadshomebrewing. All hail to the small batch brewers!

+1 to 5 batches bottled. I love having the variety small batch brewing provides, plus I get my fix every week with a new creation!

Exactly! That's how I did it.

You could have also had a packet of yeast that was not very viable. How was it stored and did you take note of the use or packaging date of it? Did you rehydrate the yeast or direct pitch from the pack?

I can usually bottle my small batches from start to finish in about 20-25 minutes. It helps to have a small batch bottling bucket with a spigot on it. Read this and see if it helps: http://www.smallbatchhomebrew.com/assets/images/HowToBottle.pdf

About 1 teaspoon will do the trick, which comes out to about 3-4 grams. That's what I use every time unless I making something over 7% ABV, then I'll use a little more.

If you plan on re-using yeast I would highly recommend the book: "Yeast: The Practical Guide to Beer Fermentation" by Chris White and Jamil Zainasheff. It has some great information about yeast rinsing, washing, culturing, storing, etc...it is an invaluable resource. Cheers!

For IPAs and other hoppier brews I tend to add 14 to 21 grams, but I have added 28 grams to a double IPA and it turned out very nice with some great aroma. If you use pellets you don't have to worry about loosing too much beer, just account for it in your boiling volume and you are all set.