Search results

Pogden, Not sure how much of the thread you were able to read back on yet, but yeah, I had a spare meter (bought two in case this happened) so I wired it up correctly this time and it works fine. As others have pointed out, the connections for the AC input and the transformer input has had a...

Absolutely...thanks pogden! I think I will stick with my remote control idea for my pump, but I do like your idea as well wottaguy. Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

Did you just take the neutral from your dryer cord and one of the hot leads to break out 120V for your pump then?

So I checked the continuity across major test points on the contactor and the switch and quickly found that my 13 to 14 contact on the switch was remaining closed despite the button being depressed and then pressed again. I could actually see that the contact inside the switch was not moving...

wottaguy....could you PM me please. I am going to go home and start going through this whole thing again to make sure I don't fry another switch or meter. I'm kind of confused and hope that pogden would chime in soon to elaborate as to why his build seems to be so different from mine, despite...

My worry without being home to actually verify this is that when I applied power to the circuit and pressed the switch, the contactor closed but despite the switch dropping a leg from opening the switch, the contactor remained closed. Can a 240V coil stay closed if only 1 leg is remaining in...

You say something would be up with my contactor, but I assume you mean switch correct, or the contactor in the switch? Not the large contactor though right?

sub'd

I understand that the black leg is always hot, but I guess concerning the way pogden has it in his diagram, doesn't the black lead connect to the red jumper line and complete the circuit regardless of the switch position? This is what happened to me, to clarify. I plugged in my control box to...

So in pogdens diagram, one hot leg is attached to the LED of the switch, and the other hot leg is being pigtailed from the closed connection side to the other end of the LED. I assume that when the gate is closed, the LEd lights up, but isnt the connection reversed? Shouldn't the red be coming...

I sure hope so, I bought the exact same model number that posted on his parts list directly from Auber Instruments....SW1...it's 2NO LED Switch.

This wiring diagram for LED light on when the circuit is closed looks nothing like what pogden has for his. Can someone clarify?

Here is directly from the Auber page for the switch... "This maintained contact push-button switch can be used to control the power of controller, a contactor, or a small power load (<10A at 240VAC). It contains two sets of normally open contacts (N. O.). The current rating is 10A at 240VAC...

The above picture is a close up of how I ORIGINALLY wired up my meter when I fried it. It's not wired up exactly the opposite, with the 220V lines coming from the contactor going to the green terminal, and the inductive coil leads going to the molex connector (the red and black wires on the...

Luckily I bought two meters in anticipation of frying one and not wanting to wait two weeks for another one to fly over here from China, so I wired it up with the 220V input going to the green connector, and the CT going to the molex connector, which is the way it should be. I'm just worried...

Gotcha....but with regard to my led switch...what would have caused it to come on and stay on? Did frying the meter somehow short out my switch too?

Furthermore, he's a wiring diagram for the meter. So what gives pogden...why didn't your blow up. It seems to me like you are pumping 220V into a tiny current reading circuit on that meter, hence why mine blew up.

Ok now I'm really lost. I just went back and looked at how pogden had done it, and the way I wired it up originally is the same way that he shows in his pictures, which I am including below. I'm fairly confident that I have the exact same amp meter, and the little green terminal on the meter...

Like this. I'm fairly certain I did it correctly. I just looked at his pics and followed the schematics.

So I figured out what I did wrong from my post above with my meter...apparently I'm not the only one that wired in my AC input to my coil....derp. Damn Chinese wire colors. In any case, I checked my wiring for my switch, but it still looks like it lighting up and never going off.