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Sounds like a score to me. You'll need to get an appropriate fitting so you end up with a hose barb.

No. Nitrogen does not dissolve in the beer. It's simply used as an inert gas to push the beer out of the keg. A "nitro stout" would be a stout brewed as any other beer. It would be carbonated to a very low level (generally 1-1.2 vol, vs. 2-3 vol for most beer styles) and then pushed out of...

If the beer has been carbonated to a normal (2-3 volume) range you'll get a mess of foam.

The point is that for the set-it-and-forget-it method, "carbing pressure" and "serving pressure" need to be the same. If you change the keg pressure, the carbonation will change as well. If you drop the pressure, you'll get foamy pours for a while as the beer offgases CO2 to requilibrate at...

I would certainly call hollandaise sauce with cream a bit more than "not quite standard" :p This is the way I've always done traditional hollandaise. It's really incredibly easy. http://www.seriouseats.com/recipes/2013/04/foolproof-2-minute-hollandaise-recipe.html

The description mentions Munich malt but it's not listed in the grain bill, which is weird...

So it seems you have Star San HB which is not the same as regular star san... edit: maybe it's the same after all https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=113446

To clarify a few things: 1) You don't need to soak anything, you need ~30 seconds of contact time so as long as the inside of the bottles are wet for 30 seconds (no need to stay immersed) you're good to go. Dunking the bottles then immediately pouring out is fine. 2) You do want to leave...

If the temp is a constant 70 and you want about 2.5 volumes of CO2 then I'd set the valve to 29 psi: http://www.brewersfriend.com/keg-carbonation-calculator/ I've never primed a keg but maybe give it 2-3 weeks at room temp before cold crashing?

I'm obviously not OP but as others posted there's no way it's the keezer unless something is very, very wrong.

What temperature is the beer at? You can use keg carbing chart/calculator (many of them exist if you Google it) and just set it there. Make sure you get it cold to bottle or you'll have a foamy mess.

Buy the o-rings in bulk on McMaster and get yourself some keg lube. Make sure the poppets look sound and replace them if any are damaged, give all seals a good lubing (especially the PRV on the lid), pressurize, then dunk in a bathtub to look for leaks. No need to monitor the pressure over time.

At the very least, pop off the "out" post and run a diptube brush down there, especially if you serve a lot of dry-hopped beer. If you've never done it you'll be amazed at all the hop debris that builds up.

That doesn't take carbonating into account! 1-2 5 gallons kegs per lb of CO2. So for your 10 lb bottle, 10-20 kegs depending on your purging, serving pressure, etc.

I wouldn't transfer it, neither would most people on this forum :p Give it 2-3 weeks in primary (make sure SG is stable) then bottle. Doing a secondary is never really necessary unless you're adding fruit or another ingredient, or you want to get it off the yeast to age for a very long time.

+1 to keep it dry!

Yup, only downside is it might pour a bit slow. But if you can wait weeks for homebrew to ferment, you can wait 5 extra seconds to pour a pint :p

Should work fine if the wattage of the heater is enough to keep up with losses in those frigid temps. Wrap a few old blankets/towels around the whole shebang to help it out.

Most people run their stout faucets at 30-35 psi, so if it produces the desired effect in that range I don't see the problem.

So I did 7 batches for my own wedding party: 2 x hefe 1 x IPA 1 x saison 1 x dry cider 1 x dunkel 1 x barleywine The saison was the first to go, followed very closely by the IPA, followed by all 10 gallons of the hefe. There was a little bit of dunkel and a little bit of cider left, and about...