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So a few more pictures... I've got all of the hardware installed and brewed twice on the stand over the weekend. First up was an american amber then I brewed a red bean red ale. I've insulated the mash tun but need to do more to hold the heat better. I am playing with the idea of lining the...

Yeah, TahoeRy, I learned that yesterday with my local club. We were discussing jockey box setups and the merits of copper vs stainless vs plastic tubing. I didn't know about the copper poisoning thing.

Yup, no need for the copper. It will hinder the heat transfer as compared to just ice. The tubing should work fine as long as you've got enough of it submerged in ice water (note, NOT just ice. Water increases the surface contact exponentially above just ice and you will get much more...

I did get the BK cut and fit lastnight. An angle grinder with the 4mm cutting wheels makes quick work of these kegs. I need to get a grinding disk to smooth out the edges and clean it up but it works for now. The cobalt step bits also go through the kegs really easily for cuttting the holes...

I'm in the process of drilling the keggles and mounting the hardware now. I had a snafu yesterday and I need to find another keg but I should be able to limp along for now and get it up and running. One keg had a dent in it that I couldn't see before cutting and the false bottom doesn't sit...

Been awhile since I've posted but still active in the hobby and the local community. I've been brewing for about a year now and have around 25 extract + specialty grains batches under my belt. It's time to move to all-grain and I've been brainstorming how I wanted my system set up. What I've...

Copper has something like 10x the heat transfer capacity of stainless. That made my decision really easy.

The lid on mine weighs over 200 lbs. I know this because I put a granite slab as my top and built the coffin out of red oak. It's supported with a pair of 100 lb gas struts. Everything functions quite well and the hinges (heavy duty 5" zinc hinges from home depot) are holding up quite nicely...

Thanks, yeah I have three of them running around the house! I was hoping to get the cabinetry done to enclose the freezer before the end of the year but I don't see that happening. Still have some work to do but at least I can drink now!

Here's the detail pics on the gas strut install. I glued some 1x4 to the freezer body with construction adhesive. Then I used 3/4" screwss to attach the brackets to the wood. The struts were a bit difficult to install as they're 100lb struts and take a LOT of force to compress. I installed...

Will do. I'll take some pictures when I get home today. It was a much easier progress than I had anticipated.

I need to finish the cabinetry to skin the outside so you can't see the freezer. The granite slab is HEAVY but I installed a set of 100lb gas struts to assist in lifting the lid. Good news is that they work like a champ. Bad news is that they're a tad too strong so I am going to put heavy...

So I know it's been FOREVER since I've updated this. Finally got the bar functional about a month ago...

Have you looked into water chemistry? This is one subject that I haven't touched yet mostly due to the complexity involved while I'm learning other things. Have you tried to brew with several different water sources (i.e. spring water, tap water, RO water adjusted with necessary chemicals...

I'm sure there's a need for one, the trick is getting it into the right location and being able to stay in business. There's 30+ people who regularly show up for homebrew club meets and events. If you have those guys all buying from you then you'll be fine. There's another one that I keep...

Depends on the IPA... if it's a basic IPA then you can go 4 week primary straight to keg or bottle. If it's an imperial then another 2-4 weeks before bottling is recommended. If you want to dry hop for a week or so then that's cool too!

Sounds like you're on the way to an awesome brew! Check your gravity after about 2 weeks and if it's at target then wat 2 days and check again. If it's the same then you are free to bottle and/or keg. Otherwise, let it keep going for another few days. Patience is a virtue and that first beer...

I always try to use whirlfloc in my brews (same result as irish moss) and it doesn't do enough on its own. I find that cold crashing really makes a difference, especially since it reduces the amount of trub that I pick up when racking so I'm less likely to clog my keg dip tube.

I cold crash as well. Generally every beer that I make I will cold crash for at least 48 hours, if not 72, then either rack to secondary (for clarification or fruit or dry hopping or whatever) or keg. If I rack to secondary, I will run another cold crash. My beers have been much clearer as a...

Relax, it will be just fine. Just try not to pick up any of the beads when you bottle or keg.