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My thought was to use my current mill with the motor setup if the chinese one it comes with is crap. I have a decent mill already. It's not the best, but not the worst either, so I could probably swap it out if need be. I like your build mongoose and am still contemplating the drill route. I...

Haha yeah I wouldn't believe that. I did see that it said about 44 lbs per hour, which seems a little more realistic. I'd assume about a pound per minute though. If that's the case, then I'd be ok with 15-20 min grind time since I only do 5 gallon batches and typically mill about 14 - 17 lbs of...

Thank you! I may just give this a shot for my mill station build. I've seen the temu one too, and it looks like it might have a slightly better motor. Time is not too much of a concern (As long as its not miserably slow) since I do 5 gallon batches. I don't need to crush my grains in a few...

I've been contemplating adding a dedicated motor to my current mill and building a little mill station. I've also been jumping back and forth about not dealing with the hassle and purchasing one with a motor, but don't want to spend 500+ on a mill. I came across this cheapo one on Amazon. Looks...

What is your equipment like? Does your mash tun have a lot of dead space where water is not mixing with the malts?

I usually have about a half gallon to a gallon left over. To help minimize loss, I like to take a fine mesh nylon bag and dump the remaining wort and trub though it. Depending on what fermenter I'm using, I sometimes have to use my funnel and place the bag in it and tie the draw sting tight. I...

I'll agree with you on this, even though I am one who tracks everything in my process. However, if things don't fall in place, I don't stress it and just let it ride. The beer still ends up great and I just take notes for next time around to try and achieve what I am after. I do feel gravity is...

Lid was always on and latched shut.

Mine worked in a stainless vessel just fine before I stopped using it because it got all wonky with the readings and calibration. I could actually get a reading on my phone from my stainless vessel even when I was downstairs directly under the room that my FV was in. I can't say for other...

It is not uncommon to adjust pH after dry hopping. I mainly like to get it dialed in early on so I don't have to worry about it later on down the line. However, there are circumstances where you may need to adjust later on, or after huge dry hopping. If your pH jumps up very high after that...

^^^ This 100% Tell us a little more about your process and equipment and we can help you figure it out. Also remember to take notes on each batch so you can better dial in your brewhouse efficiency/consistency! Also, that is awesome that you brew together!

Generally low 5's is where I've seen good break formation. I believe a target of 5.2 is where you will see optimal break formation and is a good place to start in order for Irish moss or whirlfloc to work at its best if added in towards the end of the boil. You can also keep your boil pH a bit...

100%. I like to target about 35 - 40 ppm of Na for my hazys. It definitely adds to mouthfeel and even adds to the perception of sweetness that you typically want in a hazy to help enhance that juiceyness.

I use Brun water to determine my mash pH and water profile. There isn't much out there to determine pre boil pH so sometimes I adjust blindly, little bit at a time until I reach my target. I then take notes to help me determine what i might need to add for future brews. Most of the time, I have...

Not to go too much off-topic, but I've been going crazy with pH lately. It certainly should be tracked throughout the entire process (If you're up for it). Especially with highly hopped beers. That small shift in pH can turn a dull harsh IPA into something bright and pleasant, or really bring...

I'm in Florida so no basement here. I too brew in my kitchen, but then bring the wort upstairs to my spare room where my glycol chiller and unitank are set up. I use a sanitized 3 gallon plastic carboy to transfer the wort upstairs to the unitank. I do 2 - 3 trips (carrying about 2 gallons at a...

I personally do not like diluting my wort unless it is with a minimal amount. I know it is an acceptable practice and will still produce great tasting beer, but like I said if I am over/under 2-3 points then I'd rather just let it ride and takes notes to adjust for next time I brew the recipe...

Mine always falls out too. It usually happens half way through the mash. It's really not needed as others have mentioned. I always build my water the night before and then set the timer so my strike water is heated and ready to go when I wake up. I only put the seal in to close it up over night...

It could possibly be oil's still on it from the factory. You may have to try something like TSP to clean it, then pbw after.

My tap water is pretty hard, so I always cut it with distilled water and then build it to where I want. Generally, chlorine will boil off rather quickly. It will also evaporate out of room temperature water if you let it sit open to air. However, I am not sure how long it would take to evaporate...