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I'm brewing a Vienna Lager and want to adjust my local water profile to suit the style. I've never used Bru'n Water (or any other water adjustment software). Looking for some help. Here's what I'm working with: -5 gallon batch -Simple grain bill with 5lbs of Pilsner and 5lbs of Vienna and some...

Will likely be about 2-2.5 gallons added when all is said and done. I think your idea of keeping the water profile uniform across all added water (especially if adding pre-boil) makes sense to me. Bout to start warming my strike water. So, wish me luck.

I'm less worried about the PH post boil as (at least as I understand it) the necessary reactions will have already have taken place). I'm a little more unclear on mineral ppm (possible that it would be the same conclusion as PH - it doesn't matter as the enzymatic reaction have already...

Attempting an 8 gallon batch in a 10 gallon boil kettle Question: Will diluting the wort with distilled water following the boil negatively affect the chemistry of my wort? Given that it is post boil, does it even matter? I will, of course, calculate the water addition to account for desired...

thanks for the advice. Why no crystal malts? Was hoping to add just a little sweetness and body. No good?

Yup, using what I've got. As for hops: 1oz Perle (60 min) 1oz Saaz (flameout)

I'm brewing a Kolsch and want to adjust my local water profile to suit the traditional style. I've never used Bru'n Water (or any other water adjustment software) and, in any event, cannot find the right target profile in the programs. Looking for some help. Here's what I'm working with: -5...

BrewUnited Homebrew Dad calculator states that the viability of store bought yeast decreases at a rate of 20%/month. Is this decline in viability the same or similar for an overbuild starter. Here's the use case: I have been overbuilding my starter to allow for 2 batches. Due to equipment...

Unfortunately, I haven’t discarded anything from the slurry (ie haven’t discarded any trub). Thinking there’s no way it can be all yeast (way too much of it). Suppose the yeast and trub could be very close in color and I just cannot tell the difference.

I recently brewed a pale ale using Kveik Lutra yeast. Beer turned out good. Following the brew, I harvested the cake and washed the yeast using water boiled for 15 min and cooled to 70 degrees (about 2-3 the amount of water as grub/yeast slurry). However, after leaving my mason jars for about...

No noticeable off smell in the fermentation chamber. I’m using a glass bigmouth carboy so no noticeable scratches. Am going to try an extra extra deep clean on all equipment before my next brew to see if it helps. Thanks for the suggestions.

Kegging and it is present before I transfer from primary to keg.

I try and pitch as close to the temp that I’m going to ferment at as possible but it usually winds up being around 70 degrees. I ferment in the middle of the manufacturers suggested range for the yeast I’m using. Last beer was a German hefe and was fermented at 63 (I use a thermowell in my carboy).

Just new pvc tubing

Will try the Camden tabs in my next brew. Fingers crossed that solves it.

Suggestions on replacement tubing?

PVC tubing. Taste is present before kegging.

Thanks for the comment. Tubing is of the PVC variety it’s cleaned before and after every use with unscented dish soap then with star San. I chill the wort in my boil kettle before transfer to the carboy so hot wort never touches the tubing. Do you think the pvc tubing could be contributing?

Ya, I just don’t know. Driving me crazy.

I’m pretty careful to avoid splashing etc when I transfer between boil kettle and carboy and keg, but I do not have a closed system. I try and put some co2 via a small keg charger in my vessels before I transfer to minimize contact with air. With minimal exposure like this could I still be...