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Actually, I used a flat flanged lock nut with a flat gasket on the inside and a washer and custom gasket on the outside of the pot. Since the base of the element wasn't making proper contact with the pot anymore, I had to connect the ground wire to the pot using a wire.

I had similar issues with mine. Finally made a custom gasket out of a silicone sheet and used a flat nut. I'll try to post a picture when I get home.

It would probably be a lot better to use an in line switch like this one : Leviton 1470-W 15 Amp 125V AC 3-Wire Grounded Switch Tap with On/Off Button, White https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01894YMX4/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Should work. You can use the test button to turn off the element instead of unplugging. I use the exact same plug with a 110v controller and it works fine.

That's what I thought. Thanks for the input.

Agreed. I would assume 2 pids and 2 12v pumps wouldn't even pull .5A, but I'm not sure. Don't plan on having too many lights, maybe 2...

Hi, A friend of mine wants to build a electric brewery controller. He would be limited to 30A @ 220v. He plans on doing 5 gallon batches using HERMS for mashing. He'd like to be able to control the HLT and BK elements at the same time... This is where it gets tricky. Assuming a 4500w...

I built a simple controller using these instructions and some others I found online. I think this is what you are looking for : Step by Step build a 110v portable PID controller...

I might be wrong, but as far as I know, it shouldn't make much of a difference of you mash for this extended period.

Good information! Thanks

I am pretty sure brewhardware had the same disclaimer. I personally only use it with water.

I did some test by isolating the inkbird pid from the other components in my box and got similar results, although since I put the probe in boiling water I only get the sudden jumps up, not down. I think my probe just has a slow response time. Plunging the room temp probe in boiling water, it...

I'll give it a try, thanks!

I played a little bit with digital filtering and it seems it almost completely resolved the issue, albeit affecting the response time a little. On my particular model, it can be set from 0 (off) to 20 (full on). I set it to 3 and noticed an immediate improvement. It still makes some "jumps"...

I have a REX C100 lying around, might give a try... All that wiring, ugh.

The probe is located at the end of a HERMS coil, temp is ramping slowly and doesn't change drastically. It does seem to keep my temps OK, but found it weird it fluctuates like that...

It seems it does it when holding probe in my hand as well... It doubt it's the issue, thanks for the input!

Thanks! I might want to order one of these...

It's been auto tuned and the pump was running at a steady rate (through another supply)

It is wired directly to the PID. I've got the PID, a small 12v supply, a fan, a 110v outlet and the SSR crammed into a 6 x 6 x 4 box, so it is a bit overcrowded in there... Wiring is a mess, to say the least. It could very well be interference, but while filming, the probe wiring was out the...