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I know that CBG has a webpage too. You can find the link to it (and most other WA clubs) on the WAHA site, wahomebrewers.org

Nope, there are several folks that watch this. Welcome to the thread :)

Washington Homebrewers Association wahomebrewers.org keeps a list and map of active clubs in the state. I would suggest checking there first. Cheers!

According to NB the estimated OG is 1.042. Given this and that Muntons says that the yeast supplied in the kit has an attenuation of 70%, I'd say that your 1.014 is right on the mark. At this point, RDWHAHB :mug:

Exactly, just read the specific gravity off the hydrometer. Then you can manually calculate or use one of many free calculators online. What was your OG and then what was the reading you just took?

The biggest issue I can think of is stressing the yeast by under pitching. There are probably still plenty of good viable yeast but they would do best if you were to make a starter. Even if you could put off pitching and allow a starter to go for 24hrs it would be better than not. If you do end...

Did you take a gravity post-mash / pre-boil? Also, how vigorous was your boil?

Check with Baders. They had some a little while back.

Welcome to the area. The closest place to get good prices on grain is to put together a group buy from either Main Street or Brew Brothers in Hillsboro (just west of Portland). Beer Essentials, Fermentation Initiative, Jon's Homebrew, Rocky Top, and Baders have OK prices if you are needing...

They will not sell directly to homebrewers.

I'd stick in the C hop family and go with either Centennial or Chinook

I have had mixed results to adding it after fermentation has started. In general I have had a low success rate so I don't bother with it if I forget at the beginning. I have moved to using other clearing agents like bentonite or gelatin.

homebrewer_99 you are so right on the yeast killing for bottling. If you are going to bottle and you want the cider still you must kill the yeast. If you are bottling and want a level of sparkling cider then you can't kill all the yeast since they are needed for your desired level of carb...

1:1 ratio seems very excessive. While yes the risk of over pitching, especially in the cider/wine kind of family, is not as big an issue as it is in beer, a 1:1 ratio would give you the same result as one or two packets (depending on OG). Anything more would just be a waste of money. On the...

You will find that opinions are like fingers...everyone has many and none are better than the other. That being said, here are my thoughts :) First and most important, if your process makes a beverage you like then there is really no need to change it unless you want to tweak it and make...

The recipe below looks to be on the light side (both in grain and hops) to match up with what Rogue lists for Dead Guy, but it should turn out a good drinking beer.

@doomXsaloon - What did you brew for recipe?

I would convert the grain bill as follows: 5lb Pilsner Liquid Extract 1.5lb Wheat Liquid Extract .75lb Munich 10L .75lb Vienna This should give you a pretty close match with steeping the specialty grains.

Sterling is used as a substitution for for Saaz.

@cracked1 - Did you ever brew this? How did it come out? Did you / would you make any changes? Thanks in advance