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I utilise an RO/ALK+ system on my tank. I am also asking this question on a local brewing forum as well. Recently I mixed my water for beer with this system where I usually use 3g of citric acid to non ro water to get a 5.2ph after 5 micron filtration on 7.4ph, after 3g of citric on ro it...

This is for 5 gallon batches. The whirlpool is more for circulation of the wort through the pump/plate chiller. I would have to take a picture/video when I brew next to show the process. Because I am reintroducing the wort back into the boiling pot not into the fermenter after the plate...

I use about 13-14 gallons for 5 gallon batches 9 for mashing/brewing 4-5 to clean up This is the giant water saver….. I have a small top load freezer I think it’s 8cuft. Like $100 at the blue hardware store that’s set to 4f with 15 gallons of glycol mix in 3 5 gallon buckets. When brewing I...

Here's my grain bill, hops and process I'm going to use for Crook Lane Amber Ale American Amber Ale 5.5 gallons All Grain 1.059~OG → 1.014~FG → 5.9%ABV29 IBU14.0°L SRM Yeast Fermentis - Safbrew T-58 T-58 - Safbrew T-58 Fermentis (Ale)1750mL starter with washed yeast on...

I can try, I always start with the 122 protein rest with a dough in of ~128. I will give the exact recipe I will be using. Most likely an amber. I also use 7.5/10 (smallest brew easy)240v setup in my garage.

I am brewing using it for the fifth time Sunday before Super Bowl, I will post step by step process with photos and video if possible.

Just think of it like cooking... You can always add, but you can't take away. I'd rather start with a dough in that's 5-6 degrees low than a dough in that's 5-6 degrees high and missing a conversion step because equilibriating back down would almost seem irrelevant because the grain would have...

Well when I "watched" the instructions for the system on you tube, you bring water up to strike temp and then dough in. I circulate during this process to heat both pots up. If you are using the top tier application program, dough in wait 5 minutes then press start, open all valves and turn on...

If the pump is running (collecting from the bottom pot) it is sending temperature info to the brain because the probe is on the backside of the pump reading the wort temp that is returning to the mash tun and will heat and turn off as needed. So it will continuously keep temp between both pots...

Why not just use silicone tubing with a blichmann elbow so you can still use a flow oriface in place of the s/s drain tube get 3/4" od by 1/2" inner id heavy duty silicone tubing that you can buy on eBay at ~$3/foot

I open both flow valves almost completely and insert the 1.25/gallon oriface in the flow tube out of the mash tun. I also set my autosparge arm to about 1/2" above the top of the bed after the suggested rest time of the dough in. The valves being all the way open do not matter because the...

I bought it, I love it. I have brewed 3 manual batches and 1 top tier batch.

Since I have started all grain... Things that I feel have helped my efficiency greatly to where I can practically brew with my eyes close is consistent techniques and use of equiptment. 1)I agree with virginiawolf... Purchase your own grinder and adjust to what works for YOU! 2)stir plate...

I'm still calling it a CDA because I live in Cascadia.

Why is your efficiency so low? Is this all grain or partial? I think 1.075 is the maximum. Lets talk about this.:mug:b

I have tried the jar method, it didnt seal. Plus you have to stick it in boiling water to perform a canning method on the yeast to prevent botulism.

Good work on your first brew! I remember my first batch... Wait, I don't. I think I did a newcastle clone. Anyway, welcome to one of the most rewarding hobbies ever. :mug: