Search results

Here's a graph of the fridge's power consumtion, calculated from the fridge temperature data (from the tops and bottoms of the data I can see when the compressor has turned on and off, and can that way calculate how much power it uses). The dashed line represents what I think is the normal power...

Here's my fermentation monitor using only a NodeMCU chip and some sensors. The data is sent to ThinkSpeak for easy monitoring: https://thingspeak.com/channels/100937 I'm also using a free Android widget that shows the data on my phone...

Isn't having metal against metal (washer against nut) a bad thing, won't it leak? By the way, wouldn't it be better to use flat gaskets instead of o-rings? They wouldn't deform under pressure? Too bad I'm in Europe, shipping costs more than the actual parts...

Could you elaborate? The parts are the same as here: http://brewprof.com/weekend-diy-homebrew-project-weldless-valve-stainless-boil-kettle/2/

I bought this bulkhead valve on eBay: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/152199088640 Now I'm having trouble getting the o-ring to seal properly. Attached is an image of what it looks like. The o-ring is supposed to be on the inside of the kettle, and the shim washer on the outside, right? When I...

Don't clean your equipment with isopropyl alcohol without checking chemical resistance charts first... Works fine with PET, HDPE, PP and PVC, but causes polycarbonates to crack. There goes my autosiphon :mad:

After bottling, I'd keep it warm (room temp) until the taste is the way you like. Once it tastes perfect, store it as cold as possible (close to freezing), so that the taste won't change. I have a stout that's been in room temperature, 70 F or more, for over 8 months now, and it's slowly...

In Europe we have these electric cookers with temperature control and many also include timers, they are sold as "preserving cookers" or "mulled wine dispensers". The better ones have digital controls, which of course is good for mashing as you need accurate temperature control. The heating...

I just rinse my bottles with tap water, let them dry for a while, and then I put them in the oven at 400F for at least 15 minutes. Just need to remember to let them cool before bottling :)

Sure, but did they use wine yeast in Scotland at the time (or in the US)? Especially in home production? The book in question only talks about generic "brewer's yeast". "If brewer's yeast cannot be had, baker's stock yeast might be employed, but when neither of the above can be obtained a very...

The book is printed in New York, so I assume it's US gallons? Might be a US reprint of a UK book, of course. The original recipe says half a pound, but that's for 16 gallons.

But isn't braggot supposed to contain malt also, not just honey and sugar?

Found this old recipe for mead from an old book from 1888: http://chestofbooks.com/food/beverages/A-Treatise-On-Beverages/Scotch-Mead.html Here are the ingredients scaled down to a 4 gal batch: 3 gal water (in total) 6.25 lb honey 6.25 lb brown sugar 2 oz hops 4 oz yeast 0.5 oz...

I used Magnum, 11%. The problem as I see it is that the boiling hop water might be saturated long before all the IBUs have been extracted. That small amount of water would have over 1000 IBUs if the extraction and isomerization worked as normal.

I usually leave very little head space (less than an inch) when bottling, and I haven't noticed any problems. The carbonic acid starts to decompose immediately when I open the bottle and pour the beer into a glass. If anything, wouldn't this lack of decomposing (decomposure? decomposition?) be a...

I brewed a pale ale on Sunday. I've become sloppy with my brewing lately, so it was only after I had finished and cleaned up, when I looked again at my recipe and noticed that my IBU was way too low. What to do? I figured it should work, so I took some bittering hops and boiled them gently for...

Yeah, unfortunately Beer Labelizer doesn't allow me to change the font...

If you top up with water after the boil, then you can do a much bigger batch, even larger than 5 gallons. I made a 25 liter (6.6 gal) batch in a 27 liter (7.13 gal) kettle. EDIT: I checked BeerSmith, it says I could do a 35 liter / 7.3 kg grain batch (9.25 gal / 16 lb grain) in my 27 liter...

I've just used the Beer Labelizer so far, but trying to come up with good names for my beers. "Banana Split Stout" got its name because I split the batch in two, and it tasted of bananas due to high fermentation temperature. :ban: "Midsomer Ale" is named after an imaginary place in England...

Maybe you killed the yeast? White Labs says "Ale yeast will survive to 90F." The yeast has settled to the bottom of the bottle, but when you pour it gets mixed with the beer, that's why it's more cloudy in the glass.