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1st I second pointing an auxiliary fan, powered from the pump power so if pump goes on fan goes on. 2nd, I also agree with 'you need a valve at the exit port from the vessel. Just imagine how thrilling it will be when you have 5+ gallons of hot sticky liquid when your pump clogs and there is no...

I am seeing this scorching but I believe that it is happening when circulation drops due to my grain bed sticking when mashing. I had set up my system with a tri-clamp filtering gasket just after a site glass and the ability to back flush. This configuration is actually exacerbated the scorching...

I have been having the same scorching problem and am interested in your solution but I have one question. Do you preheat your water before adding your grain bill?

Take Me to the  River - The Talking Heads

I brew in a conical fermenter. After brewing I detatch the external heating & cooling equipment and attach a mason jar to the valve at the bottom of the fermenter. Periodically I close the valve, detatch the mason jar, dump the trub, reattach & open the valve. Works great.

I am also fighting similar battles with a RIMS tube and a DSPR320. My system has 1/2" ID+ from the kettle thru the pump, RIMS tube & chiller with a 3/8"ID return to the kettle. The following runs well until some form of blockage occurs. If I am not keeping an eye on the system and shut down...

I had the same situation, installed a rheostat, had the over heating issue and installed an auxiliary 120v ac fan powered by the same circuit that powers the pump. Note: power for the fan is taken from the circuit before the rheostat so the fan runs at full speed whenever the pump circuit is...

Will do but might not be until my next brew opportunity. Late April??

Here is my concise but incomplete documentation I created in my effort to bend my own dspr320 to my will. Hope it helps.

I am coming out the other end of the rabbit hole you are jumping in to. One of the things I found early on is a triclamp fitting that connects to a mason jar. With a wide bore valve between this fitting and the bottom of the conical fermenter I am able to periodically able to dump trub during...

I'm putting my left foot in and shaking it all about!

I started with a 3 gallon pot, a 5 gallon plastic bucket, 25' of copper tubing fitted to a garden hose & The Complete Idiot's Guide to Home Brewing. Almost all of the beer I made while learning how I want to make beer and evolving my equipment to match for the past 16ish years has been...

For probably the past 10 years I have soaked, scoured, doused in sanitizer, rinsed, run the bottles in the dishwasher sanitizing cycle, cap empty with a sanitized cap & store. I usually do this for about 48 bottles a run. For the cost of an extra bottle cap per bottle I start my bottling day...

I am crediting my geriatric insomnia and a very patient wife!

3 way / T. The ball will rotate 360°. My need was to have ports at top, bottom & side and then be able to switch from top/side to bottom/side without allowing wert at boiling temperature to flow from top to bottom. Thanks for asking. I'll update my post to clarify.

I had hoped this was going to be more useful to my home brewing but as my equipment came together it turned out to not be as useful as I had imagined it to be. This valve has been used about six times. Each time the valve was used it was dismantled, cleaned and reassembled. The only wear marks...

I steep, sparge, boil, ferment & bottle from my conical. As the trub deposits in a mason jar mounting to the bottom of the vessel the beer doesn’t come out between brew day & bottle day. The process column hidden behind the stand & controller contains a sight glass, pump, heating element & a...

If it is still for sale message me with shipping to 77009!

I have always been subject to an overly strong sense of 'I want it my way'. (I imagine this to be common among home brewers) I spent a looong time trying to find a controller that did it my way before I gave up. I looked up some electrical wiring diagrams to gain a basic understanding...