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You can use sourdough starter for a beer yeast. I gave it a try in this thread. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/sour-dough-starter-for-yeast.625442/

Congratulations and a very nice looking label as well

How long did you ferment? that "final gravity" sample still has a lot of yeast in suspension so may not be done. I would be worried about bottle bombs if you have already bottled.

Since dry hopping is largely for aroma (no IBU contribution as the beer is too cold to isomerize the alpha acids) I would go with just the cascade as they smell better to me. But if you like a bit of the dank, someone was smoking weed in here an hour ago, aroma then feel free to add the...

No you can't blend. There is nothing to be done and the only option it to package and ship directly to me for proper disposal. But if that is not going to happen, I would recommend you test to get a mixture you like. Pull a sample of your stout, say 10 oz and measure. Then add your porter...

If you want to go the mead route, here is a great recipe that I am sure you can get all the ingredients locally https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=49106

A yeast alternative I tried was sourdough starter. It had about 90% attenuation and gave a flavor very similar to what an English ale yeast gives. In fact, although the recipe was for a malty pale ale, the result tested very much like an English brown. I put in about a cup and a half of...

Although I can't say I have noticed it, I like just a bit of that Simcoe cat pee dankness, so I have not worried should my chinook give a hint. Chinook for dankness and clean bitter with cascade to brighten it up just a bit. You can't go wrong.

From what I have read 20 minutes and 30 both would have the drawback of not enough boil for full isomerization and yet enough to boil off aroma and most flavor. Why are you concerned about too much at 60? Because I grew a bunch I have been using Chinook for all my bittering and it has...

I didn't mean to move the 1 minute to 5. It was to move the 30 minute to 5 minutes to get more flavor and aroma out of that addition. The more I read the more I am cutting out any additions between 59 minutes and 10. Seems those middle additions don't boil long enough to get full...

My two unsolicited cents worth, and not worth a penny more. The 30 minute Cascade is not going to do much. I would move it to a 5 or 10 minute addition and then up the 60 minute chinook addition to make up the IBU. Either way it looks like a great beer. Similar to my summer house pale ale...

yes - they will be fine. They are dry so no cell damage is happening due to ice crystal formation. Thaw and refreeze cycles of things like fruit will turn them to mush due to the ice crystals destroying the cell structure.

Although I fully acknowledge the risks of glass. If the original request for a 5 gal fermentor is valid, i.e. planned batch sizes are 4 gallons or less, the risk is reduced. The smaller the carboy (assuming no manufacturing defects) the less the risks of breakage. Smaller carboys weight less...

The problem with any larger volume vessel and not using CO2 is that as you use the product you are not replacing the CO2 so you end up with more and more air filled head space. What you are referring too is exactly what was used 150 years ago, a cask ale. To avoid the eventual sour you...

The 5 gallon glass carboy is as cheap as you will get - hard to find used http://www.northernbrewer.com/5-gallon-glass-carboy

I also wonder about you OG. 1.046 is very low for a double IPA. I would expect something closer to 1.060 or above. If the reading is correct, either your grain bill was off or your efficiency was low.

And get a hydrometer. Making beer without a hydrometer is like unprotected sex. Yes it is still fun but it is a crap shoot as to what you might really be getting.

It is probably done fermenting (NOT DONE IN THE FERMENTOR THOUGH). The "gunk" you see is where the krausen was up to. With active fermentation complete the krausen has fallen. Now just leave it alone for another two weeks to let the yeast clean up after themselves and you will be good. Quick...

If you want a good bit of malt you are probably going to be pushing the amber ale side rather than middle of style APA. My winter house pale ale is should probably be called House amber instead but sounds like what you are targeting as far as taste. It is 9% crystal, 20% Munich, 25%...

I think you are worried too much about hot spots. I have a much cheaper (read thinner) kettle that I use over gas. From the beer stone deposits I get I am certain I have hot spots. But I have never had any scorched flavors. And I don't stir the boil kettle. Wort will circulate naturally as...