Search results

add some ice cubes to the cold water bath every once in a while ive had fermentations take place 12 degrees above room temperature- it all depends

are you brewing all-grain? because if you are, you may not be boiling off enough DMS- which can leave you with a canned vegetable smell and flavor in your beer all, 'boiling' means noticeably- 'simmering' may not isomerize your hop alpha acids properly and you may end up with a different level...

you might have made it more bitter, not more hoppy. more alpha acids would be isomerized because you lengthened the time they were boiling. you might lose some flavor/aroma from that second hop addition- most IPAs are late-hopped at knockout (when you take it off the heat) and dry-hopped so...

left a ten gallon kettle filling with hot water on the counter flooded the laundry room, the hallway, and made it rain in the basement ive done this three times

lambics use aged hops aged hops give the beer no hops bitterness or aroma, but do lend a preservative value might be something you want to look into otherwise, i guess you could just use mid to high alpha hops w/90 minute boils for balance only- you shouldnt have much flavor or aroma left...

im not gonna lie- sometimes i just forget to take the gravity, probably because ive been waiting for the wort chiller to do its thing, its 1030 at night, and i want to have a damned beer after nine hours of brewing also, i frequently forget to add the irish moss- like, in my last four beers

to be honest, id wait on the gravity- the bulk of the fermentation is done, but you might as well wait until the beer clears and you are ready to rack to take a gravity (more gravity readings=higher risk of contamination) for a beer with an OG of only 1.048, and brewed with extract, you are...

also, try just heating your mash water separately from the container you are doing the mash in cover your mini-mash-tun with a towel or something to keep the heat in- theres no need to apply constant heat during a mash, especially when you can decoct or just add hot water to do steps

i dont do mini-mashes, but i'd imagine a screen of some sort, perhaps a stainless vegetable steamer (looks like a flying saucer, has feet, unfolds like a fan to keep veggies off the bottom of the pot when cooking) would do the trick

after the gentle agitation of bottling, a good majority of the carbonation that takes place happens in the first week or so that being said, bubbles after one day sounds scary- and if your fermentation temp was too low, theres a good chance that the batch didnt attenuate properly USE A HYDROMETER

im a proponent of always waiting at least four weeks after bottling to drink any beer, but your main concern here should be bottle bombs they are not funny-they are EXTREMELY DANGEROUS if your bottles are highly carbed after only a day or two, then they will become bottle bombs, i guarantee it...

i wouldn't worry too much about weighing the sugar- unless you are using the exact same brand that edwort uses, chances are the gravity of the apple juice before you add the sugar isn't exactly the same as far the plastic fermenter, when i made edwort's apfelwein i decided to transfer it to a...

WLP051, or California V ale, is very close to the original california ale yeast, except it produces a slightly fruitier, less clean taste 70 is at the very high end of the spectrum for this yeast- 65 to 68 is best above 70 this yeast will start to give you too much yeast character to be...

ive NEVER made a homebrew that wasnt 10x better at six weeks than at two weeks bite your lip and wait- try buying more carboys and filling them to satisfy your beer addiction after six weeks, the beers will be better and carbonated for sure and yes, i know how hard it is to wait...

i have a mead brewing with lemon peels floating in it, and i noticed that all the peels have migrated to one half of the surface in the fermenter the half that has peel floating in it has no foam on it at all, while the other half has a good amount of thick foam on it something about the...

You are definitely playing a risky game bottling a belgian after a week in the primary and a week in the secondary. With a high gravity beer like this, just the density of the beer alone makes it harder for the yeast to attenuate, plus the higher alcohol slows them down even more. i'd almost...

i have four new 6 gallon carboys, and i have two 5 gallon carboys made in 1928 and 1930. Eighty years later, they still have no crack (only a small chip on the lip which i sanded down) if you treat them well, they will last forever and will not scratch as easily as the better bottles- fine...

for your second batch, falling within 0.009 of your target gravity isnt just good, its impressive also, there are temperature conversion factors for what the temperature of the sample is when you take the gravity and how that temperature changes the gravity reading the hotter a wort sample is...

+1 star san- "no-rinse" threw me off of using it for a while, but John Palmer has done experiments proving that star san foam has no effect on taste it has one minute contact time, it works in cold water, it stays viable through tons of knick-knacks sanitized and for half a day or more-trust...

american ale yeast needs to ferment around 65-68 for that clean, crisp taste you find in sierra nevada and other American Pale Ales. a few degrees, no big deal, but in an extract pale ale, id say that the extra ten degrees or more of temp made the difference