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Interesting problem... The last effort in particular, you seem to have closed all of the usual water and oxidation gaps, including CO2 purging of the serving keg. First of all, man... you've got to brew more often if you want to improve your beers! Think about how to accomplish that, perhaps...

Opening the lid is what introduces oxygen from the air outside the bucket, so it wouldn't have any effect to bubble CO2 up through the beer. The best you could do is to fill the headspace with CO2 while dropping the hops in, basically trying to blast any encroaching air away. It won't be...

In post #1501 (wow) you say that most large German breweries pressure ferment for a few days. You don’t explicitly state anything about temperature, but I suppose that aspect is being inferred.

Just for amusement and comparison, yesterday I brewed a 2.5 gallon Belgian blonde with 5.4 lb of grain (82% pils) and wait for it... 9 grams of citra. :) This is a 1.058 beer with 19 IBU and a very different style, but still, the original recipe here has nearly 13x as much hops as mine.

Did you look at the NorCal false bottoms? They use 3/32" holes on 5/32" centers.

It is a mix, but only very small commercial breweries, nothing industrialized. I wish I could estimate the general batch size, but it's mom and pop type of places. And I haven't been looking at any big establishments, but I have seen a few spunding valves here and there in the footage...

@moreb33rplz I should probably start a separate thread, but these are some highlights: They use motorized mash agitators to continuously stir the mash rather than using pumps to recirculate. They may use a separate lauter tun, into which they run the entire wort and grains, usually with great...

Regardless of what macro German brewers may do today to take shortcuts, that doesn't really interest me. Nor do I believe it takes away anything from the established history of how lager beer has been traditionally produced. Also, the primary fermentation is just one small piece of the...

A couple of random Googled quotes: "The Baltic-style Porter is a smooth, cold-fermented and cold-lagered beer brewed with lager yeast." "Unlike English porters, Baltic porters are lagers, not ales." If you use lager yeast but purposefully avoid handling it as a lager - fermenting warm, not...

^As you can see, there are many ways to do things. I would venture that @bobeer force carbonates, and if so, the amount of yeast transferred to the keg can be "none" if that's achievable. In contrast, I either spund at the end of fermentation, or use priming sugar in my kegs. So I will always...

If you don't need the yeast to continue fermenting or metabolizing fermentation byproducts, then it's safe to drop it down without steps. The stepping technique is done to prevent yeast from going (nearly) dormant as the temperature drops. Unless you have a means of preventing suck-back from...

What could be intelligent and revealing discourse/debate is sadly forced to devolve into "I'm always right, and you're an idiot." Nobody is always right, and while there are certainly idiots, I don't see any of those here, especially not when writing about science in a second language. The...

There are so many variations on producing lager beer, all of which can succeed in their own way. You have to make decisions about temperature, pressure, schedule, and carbonation. Remember that the point of pressure fermentation is that it allows you to ferment the beer at a warmer temp than...

I won't address the yeast part, but regarding your pressure settings... 15 psi at room temperature is not adequate for carbonation. The pressure setting required to obtain a given amount of absorbed CO2 is dependent on the temperature. Refer to this chart. At 68ºF, 15 psi only achieves 1.7...

Think about that question for a moment, and you’ll see that in some ways it doesn’t matter - the conclusion is the same. :)

I see this posted all the time, so I'm not picking on you, but it's just not necessarily true. There are various aspects of water that don't manifest as flavor in the drinking glass, but which nevertheless ruin beer. I am a poster child for this, as I have well water that's entirely unusable...

I find that extended cold conditioning, i.e. lagering (regardless of style), is the most effective way to let beer mature. Mine spend 5-14 days in the fermenter depending on style and gravity, then get racked to a serving keg. If I am force carbonating, I'll just start that right away while it...

You only need a heat source if your fridge or freezer is in an ambient space that can get colder than the desired temperature setting. For example, my keezer is set to 42F and is in my garage, which stays about 40-50F in the winter. But if we have an extended deep freeze, the garage drops into...

Try 12 psi and two weeks to carbonate, three weeks to drink. Not that you can't steal a sample at any time. But it invariably makes a difference, and sometimes a profound, transformative difference. Beer straight out of the fermenter, even sitting there for two weeks, is not ready to drink...

All good points above - water quality, under-pitching, and fermentation on the potentially too warm side, if only by a modest amount. I'll add a comment about conditioning and your expectations. Beer really needs 2-3 weeks of cold storage to be consumer-ready. You are the consumer! How...